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Routes in Inspiration Peak

East Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,884 total · 33/month
Shared By: ehhaole on May 22, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Goodell Creek Access Closed Details

Description

Access a small buttress under the south face via the glacier, climb up and right to access a right-trending ramp, belay below a corner system, trend up and left to connect with obvious gash in upper south face. Chimney up the gash to the top. Descent: scramble downward a few hundred feet toward a notch and rappel.

Protection

Light alpine rack. Many nut placements possible. A few medium cams for the upper pitches. Crampons may be useful in late season.

Photos

What was failed to be mentioned is THE APPROACH (death march):

4+ miles of trail along Goodell Creek, followed by

interminable and killer slog for at least 5000 vertical feet of what is euphemistically referred to as a "climbers path" (including thick, steep brush but excluding any water sources)

another mile of sidehill traverse on said "path"

several hundred feet of talus or snow to a saddle only to drop 400 feet down steep snow on the other side (ice axe required, crampons advised)

another mile or two of scree/talus/snow to get to the edge of the glacier shown in the photo above Jun 20, 2013