West ridge

Adventurous route that climbs the West ridge of Inspiration for about 1300 feet. Very direct line that starts at the toe of the west ridge 300 feet above the ‘shrund and goes to the summit via sustained  5.7 climbing. The rock gets better every pitch you go! Don’t pass up anchors/ gear very compact rock. 

Climb up the obvious gully until it makes sense to gain the West Ridge( 100-200ft ) hard to get anchor on slab, new 3 pin anchor on climbers right of slab. 100 ft up the ridge.

Gain face to the right of ridge crest to a 2 pin anchor below a left facing corner on a with a ledge on top of it, climb right angling crack to big ledge. Nut and pin anchor.

Head up and right via corners tell you gain a slopping ledge with loose blocks in it (trundle after your partner gets up there ;) ). 2 pin anchor

Head up large obvious corner with chimney full of loose blocks on the left of you. As soon as possible step left onto slab out of corner. Fix anchor on top.

Climb back and forth thru some what lichen covered ledge systems for 100-feet to takes you to a nice ledge with small horn with cord at 100 ft.

Climb to the ridge crest to gain extremely good rock on the ridge proper and a large horn with cord. At 200 ft.

Climb easy 5th for 200 ft to the base of the summit head wall. No fixed anchor at base of wall

Climb up on the right side of head wall on very fun rock with lots of features. Horn or pin anchor around here. 

Climb up to and around a rock scar roof. Careful of loose rock. 

Climb up lower angle rock for 200 feet to the summit ridge and then 100 feet up the ridge puts you on the summit.

Rap stations off the summits skiers left/ climbers side takes you back down the west ridge. All anchors replaced 6/2024. Rap down the ridge crest to the base of the head wall. Scrabble down ridge crest to big horn anchor and keep rapping down WEST RIDGE. From 3 pin anchor at then start of ridge rap down climbers right off the large over hang. 1 100 ft rap off 2 pin and 1 nut anchor on slab puts you back onto glacier above the “shrund

Single 60 works great on decent. Clean as much of the loose blocks off as your climb up and rap down. This route will become classic if we all do our part. 

Obvious west ridge of Inspiration.

Single set from .1-3 doubles from .3 to 1. Extra cord and pins just in case. Single 60.