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Routes in Big Baldy

Caught in the Act T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drillathon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Free Enterprise T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gully of Descent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Phrenology T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stickup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Welcome to Big Baldy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Young Eagle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 294 total, 5/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Apr 14, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

There isn't really any aid on the route but I top-rope soloed this climb and pulled on a draw at the crux, so I'll leave it at 5.10+ A0 until I lead it and get a better idea. Let me know if you know the real name, who did the FA, or if you lead it and get a better idea of the difficulty. I just felt like adding the furthest left (Spine Line) and furthest right (this one) climbs to start.

This climb has a variety of starts and climbs into a beautiful, clean corner with a finger crack, finishing with an easier corner and some knobs high up. The first and last pitches are relatively easy, while the second pitch has a difficult bolt protected crux where the corner closes off and turns into a roof.

P1: This pitch climbs past the small pine tree, up large blocks and to a three bolt anchor at the start of the corner. Choose any variation, including a traverse in from the east or ascending a number of ways from below.

P2: Climb the corner to the roof, pulling this roof if the crux and leads to another two bolt anchor. There's a bolt under it but a larger cam fits above the bolt under the roof. A clean corner, delicate slab, and a wild move over the left side of the roof makes this pitch an exciting one!

P3: From the bolts make your way up the left-facing corners and onto to the knobby face beyond.
P3 Variation: Climb up easy but runout knobs above the belay, slinging them as you go.

Location

Easiest to descend down the east side from the summit. As you round the east face to the south face, look for a small pine tree about 60 ft off the ground. The first pitch climbs past this tree and ascends the left-facing corner above it.

Protection

Cams up to 3", a set of nuts, and some runners to avoid rope drag over the roof. Emphasis on small stuff. First anchor is three bolts, second is two bolts and the last is natural.

Photos

limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
 
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
 
Ya it sounds like Welcome To Big Baldy from my description but this climb is on the south east face and WTBB is on the south end of the west face. This climb has a much easier first pitch and was done after the old SEKI guide was published which is why I don't know who did it. Sep 14, 2013
Nathan W.
Sequoia NP, CA
Nathan W.   Sequoia NP, CA
I think this might be Welcome to Big Baldy(5.11). it sounds like it, to me at least, and It's the right-most route on the Big B. And if so than the FA is Richard and Laeger september '86 Sep 13, 2013