Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Big Baldy
|Caught in the Act T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Drillathon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Free Enterprise T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Gully of Descent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Phrenology T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Spine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Stickup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0|
|Welcome to Big Baldy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Young Eagle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||294 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||limpingcrab on Apr 14, 2013|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details
DescriptionThere isn't really any aid on the route but I top-rope soloed this climb and pulled on a draw at the crux, so I'll leave it at 5.10+ A0 until I lead it and get a better idea. Let me know if you know the real name, who did the FA, or if you lead it and get a better idea of the difficulty. I just felt like adding the furthest left (Spine Line) and furthest right (this one) climbs to start.
This climb has a variety of starts and climbs into a beautiful, clean corner with a finger crack, finishing with an easier corner and some knobs high up. The first and last pitches are relatively easy, while the second pitch has a difficult bolt protected crux where the corner closes off and turns into a roof.
P1: This pitch climbs past the small pine tree, up large blocks and to a three bolt anchor at the start of the corner. Choose any variation, including a traverse in from the east or ascending a number of ways from below.
P2: Climb the corner to the roof, pulling this roof if the crux and leads to another two bolt anchor. There's a bolt under it but a larger cam fits above the bolt under the roof. A clean corner, delicate slab, and a wild move over the left side of the roof makes this pitch an exciting one!
P3: From the bolts make your way up the left-facing corners and onto to the knobby face beyond.
P3 Variation: Climb up easy but runout knobs above the belay, slinging them as you go.