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Routes in Big Baldy

Caught in the Act T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drillathon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Free Enterprise T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gully of Descent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Phrenology T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stickup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Welcome to Big Baldy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Young Eagle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger and Eric Rhicard, July 1987
Page Views: 639 total, 11/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Apr 14, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

This enjoyable dike is has been described and being "like climbing the vertebrae of some long-dead animal." After a short third class scramble to the base of this dike you basically follow it up fun climbing past two bolts until you exit to a crack on the left. The bolts are pretty far apart but the climbing between them is positive and straightforward.

Location

It's the first climb as you descend along the bast on the west. Just past a knob covered face and a crack the "spine" cuts through some empty slab. Climb half a pitch of blocks to attain the start.

Protection

A couple draws and half a dozen cams from 0.5-1.5" for the top of the dike, anchor, and short second pitch off.

Photos

Oh man was this a fun time! I'll preface this with the fact that some funky things happened yesterday when we climbed this line. I would definitely recommend the preferred approach where you park near the cell tower and hike in. We left the car at 3:30pm and returned to it by 7:00pm because we screwed up the approach. We followed a well worn trail south until we saw what we believed was the top of big baldy. We cut off the well worn trail too early and ended up walking down slabs for what seemed like forever. We eventually gave up, turned around and started hiking back up the slabs. A few hundred feet later the west face of Big Baldy came into view. We ended up at the base of the climb around 5:15pm. We climbed up to the base of the dike/slab. Then climbed the route in a single pitch with a 70 meter rope. I climbed up the dike (heads up lead, I felt the first crux wasn't well protected) and continued up the slabs past the top of the dike rather than cutting left towards the crack (accidentally off-route but really fun and felt this flowed really well with the rest of the climb.) If you were to fall at certain parts of this climb, it is likely you would get hurt. With that said, everything you need to succeed is there, the climbing itself wasn't too difficult. At some point I'll come back and give this line another go, hopefully staying on route. May 30, 2016