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Routes in Big Baldy

Caught in the Act T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drillathon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Free Enterprise T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gully of Descent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Phrenology T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spine Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stickup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Welcome to Big Baldy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Young Eagle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Rhicard, laeger, 9/86
Page Views: 358 total, 11/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Apr 24, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

As the old SEKI guide says, the most attractive natural line on the cliff. That other part, about the lichen, is also accurate. Like a smaller moratorium and would be of equal quality if clean

P1 - 11b - Pull a move to get off the ground and enjoy clean 10a corner climbing up to the first roof. It would be burly enough without all the lichen, but, as it is, expect a full on battle and your belayer to get showered.

Catch a rest and then summon the courage and beta to get around the second roof. Continue up through another crux and then some choss. I belayed on a sloping shelf with an odd bolt at my feet. Crazy pitch.. All the important feet are clean for the time being..

P2 - 10c - Crank off the super clean and sharp locks in the corner and layback out the roof to a thank god foot ledge. Continue up the easier corner, clean and classic, to an ok belay below the small roof of the next pitch

P3 - 10b - Climb the splitter on the left wall and work your way up and over the roof to a stance. A short ways higher we traversed left at a ledge and belayed at a bolted anchor. Continuing straight up did not seem like an option

P4 - runout choss - You can rap from the anchor as there's another one straight down.. not sure if 1 or 2 ropes though. If you want to top out.. we took a line to the left up a vedged v-slot. There are some better looking lines, but it's pretty steep over there.

Location

Head down the north/west slabs and then traverse the base a long ways until you see the awesome RF corner.

Descent - Rapping is probably the best option, but then you have to hike all the way out. Although, if you're doing other routes, that's the way to go. If you choose to top out, leave your bags on the summit ridge.

Protection

Double to #3. Extra .4-.75. One #4.

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