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Routes in i. Train in Vain Sector

Demon In My Semen S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Econoline S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight ... No. Ten! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flex All S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Flex in Vain S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sighting, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train In Vain Direct Start S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Train in Vain S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 577 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Apr 9, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Perform an athletic sequence (12a) through the first bolt to an okay stance and clip the second bolt. Climb right and up through a powerful boulder problem and clip the third bolt (which can be difficult to clip). Crux is a bit reachy. Pump past two more bolts to the anchor.

I'd recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the climbing is relatively hard right off the bat.

The name likely arises from the fact that the climb is usually too wet to climb when the rest of the crag is relatively dry. Even in the best of conditions I've found some holds in the crux to be damp.

Location

The steep overhanging wall a bit left of The Sighting

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt LO

Photos

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Climberdude
Kraley
  5.12b/c
Climberdude   Kraley
  5.12b/c
More likely has to do with "the Clash". Apparently, first ascent parties enjoyed them and the "Chili Peppers" and "Mental as anything". Agree to being wet often though. Dec 11, 2014
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
First ascent by Eric Horst. Jul 12, 2013
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
I think it took me longer to figure out the beta for clipping the first bolt than doing the rest of the moves up higher. Jun 16, 2013