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Routes in i. Train in Vain Sector

Demon In My Semen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Econoline S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight ... No. Ten! S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Flex All S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flex in Vain S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sighting, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Train In Vain Direct Start S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Train in Vain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott
Page Views: 671 total · 11/month
Shared By: Climberdude on Aug 13, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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8 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb face through 3 bolts.
Then a bit run out to 4th bolt. There is a rotten, chossy section to your left. stay away! (goes with out saying, really)
Clip 5th bolt and roll to anchors.
Harder climbing right of bolt line all the way to just beyond the last bolt then immediately move left.

Stay away from the choss on descent also.

Location [Suggest Change]

10' right of Demon

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts

Photos

Scott Taber
  5.10a/b
Scott Taber  
  5.10a/b
Don't know why this is rated 5.9. The crux seems to be the blank face between the last 2 bolts and is more like a 5.11. We sat there on the ledge staring at the crux for about 10 minutes trying different things and had a very difficult time getting past it. It sure wasn't a 5.9 in our book. Not even close. Maybe a hold broke off? Mar 15, 2014
WILLIAM FENWICK
REISTERSTOWN, MD
WILLIAM FENWICK   REISTERSTOWN, MD
I would agree with the stiffer than 5.9 comment from above. Tricky moves once you're above the big landing/ledge in the middle of the route. Jun 27, 2016

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