Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cliffs

5.8 Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8- crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Black Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coyote's Tooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fringe Dweller S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ichabod T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ichabod Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Kuntz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regurgitator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed 2 T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 299 total, 5/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Mar 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This fine crack leads to the top of the cliff, but only the first two pitches are worth doing. The third is choss.

Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.

Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.

Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?

Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.

A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.

Location

It is 150 feet to the left of Coyote's Tooth.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Helmet.

Photos

0 Comments