Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Cliffs
|5.8 Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|5.8- crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Black Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coyote's Tooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fringe Dweller S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Green Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ichabod T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ichabod Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Kuntz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Regurgitator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unnamed 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unnamed 2 T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||299 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Furthermore on Mar 29, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis fine crack leads to the top of the cliff, but only the first two pitches are worth doing. The third is choss.
Look for a two bolt anchor (there are not many) with an angling crack to the right. This is the start.
Pitch 1: 40 feet, 5.10b/c. Start on 5.8 terrain to a nice, thin, hand crack finish. The 5.10b/c is only a few moves near the top and protects very well. 1 bolt, 1 pin anchor.
Pitch 2: 60 feet, 5.8. Continue up the featured crack with fun pockets. Near the top it is extremely loose. 2 bolt anchor. Did I mention super loose?
Pitch 3: 40 feet, 5.6-7? I didn't do this pitch, but looking at the garbage on the ledge before the final headwall, it didn't seem worth it.
A 60m rope will be just enough rope to rappel from the top of the second pitch.