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Routes in Watch Crystal

Apes of Wrath S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime & Punishment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doctor Doolittle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dogs of Doom T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Exposure Direct T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Durangutan T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evolution S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Extra Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hidden Gem S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kong Route, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Picto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martyr's Crown T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Picto Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Glide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Primate Highway T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Push-Me-Pull-You T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Picto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simians to the Sun T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Crystal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Pages T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Pages T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 180 total, 3/month
Shared By: Dylan Weldin on Mar 27, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on a shared start with "Dogs of Doom". Solo up to the high first bolt (this is the "R" bit) and then begin the exciting, footwork-intensive face climbing sequence on solid edges, sloping sidepulls, and classic crimps until and awkward mantle. There is a small crack here for... maybe a green Alien? Move into more exciting face climbing that links into the upper portion of Double Exposure. It has great movement and great rock; this does not get the traffic it deserves!

Location

This is at the right end of the Watch Crystal. It shares the start with the prominent, left-facing corner that is Dogs of Doom.

The other landmark: it is immediately right of Push Me Pull You.

TR to your delight, then descend via the fixed line in the gully to your right or by rapping the face of the Watch Crystal.

Protection

1 small cam above the mantle.
7 quickdraws.
1 48" runner or normal cordelette to extend your masterpoint over the edge of the Watch Crystal (chains should be added, see descent info below).

Photos

Ben Kiessel  
 
Although this thing is a little heady, it has really good movement.

Green Alien for the mantel move. You can also fiddle in a black Alien once you are standing on the ledge to add confidence. Oct 13, 2017
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the chance, I'll put new chains up there.

Next time I do the route, I'll just walk off and avoid the horrid drag.

Also might be worthy to bring a long draw for the bolt on the right side of the arete before heading around the corner to the Watch Crystal face. Jun 20, 2013