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Routes in Watch Crystal

Apes of Wrath S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime & Punishment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doctor Doolittle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dogs of Doom T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Exposure Direct T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Durangutan T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evolution S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Extra Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hidden Gem S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kong Route, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Picto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martyr's Crown T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Picto Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Glide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Primate Highway T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Push-Me-Pull-You T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Picto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simians to the Sun T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Crystal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Pages T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Pages T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,415 total, 24/month
Shared By: Grant Bryans on May 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Described as a classic East Animas crack climb, this takes on the obvious crack to gain a ledge. From this ledge, belay your partner up and go to the obvious crack (5.8).

Protection

Classic East Animas rack.

Photos

Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.10
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.10
P1: tips lieback into hands into East-A awkward pod (protect w/ #3). Traverse left to anchor.

P2: face climb immediately above anchor, get into wide hands/ #4 sized crack to a ledge, new BD #5 (two would not be a bad idea) protects upper stacked-fist sized crack to the top of the Picto Cracks/ Double Exposure area.

Anchor: gear belay or terrain belay as the leader could not get sucked through the wide crack the follower comes up and through.

Continuing up the infamous "Black Arete" is recommended! Mar 27, 2013
Actually Tim, when we did the FA of this climb, I was still mostly wearing the Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Low Top Sneakers. EBs hurt way too much to wear for very long and as a poor college student couldn't afford 'em anyway! Jul 4, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
They used to call it 5.9 when they did it in the 1970s in EBs. I think it's classic in an old school East A way. Mar 21, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10a
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10a
I thought it a tad stiff for 10a, but then it's all relative. Short- yes, fun- yes. Classic??? Once again, I guess it's all relative. I sure wouldn't hike up here to do it, but if you are here and you climb 10s it is not bad. Sep 30, 2008
Easy-E
Durango, CO
Easy-E   Durango, CO
Steep fingers off the deck and then the typical east a wack factor in a flare. Good climb. Nov 7, 2007