Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Owl Rock - West

Fledgling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Night Vision T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Owl Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Snack Break T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snack Break Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, Chris Filer 1983
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: Steve Majors on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb over a small bulge to an overhanging crack. You'll need to stem a lot and make sure to place good gear before tackling the overhang because it doesn't let up too much after that. It is more difficult and awkward than it looks. Climb up and right on good ledges/edges but it is very run out till you get to the two bolts before the anchor. The guide book I have says it's 5.9 but it says, "probably hard for it's grade".

Location

Owl Rock - West

Protection

You need two small cams before the roof and some large stoppers up high above the roof. Bolts are up and to the right (shares anchors with Snack Break Direct & Snack Break).

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.9 PG13
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.9 PG13
The "PG13" rating refers to the 25 or so feet from your last piece of trad gear to the next bolt.

The boulder start requires fine footwork, but a good stance can be made about 15' up to place a Black Alien (or equivalent) into the overhanging crack, followed shortly thereafter by a series of nut and cam options. Height helps. This would be difficult/committing for shorter individuals. May 12, 2013