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Routes in Owl Rock - West

Fledgling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Fledged T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Vision T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Owl Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Snack Break T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snack Break Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1980-something
Page Views: 129 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 1, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A good climb with a good crux, but all of the good climbing is at the good crux. The rest of the route is lacking. Start from the ground, just a few feet left of a bush maybe 3 meters up. Climb past the bush and into a right-leaning crack. The rock is lichen-covered, but mostly solid and the grade is moderate. As you reach solid protection, place it on a long runner, as you are still moving up and right, but the route is about to traverse left under the roof. Continue on solid jams until the crack ends, and go out left a few meters to an obvious jam-crack and start into the roof on some under-clings and jams- get horizontal and pull into the roof and over it on some technical jams and an edge or two. Footwork is still key, although there is not apparently much for feet. (Hint: This *is* a crack climb, after all.)
After the roof you will arrive on a ledge. While it is possible to belay here, I found it more inviting to traverse left (run it out of suffer the drag) into a cleft, then go up a few ledges on the right side of the cleft and to the cliff-top to belay off of gear.
To descend, scramble down to the South and find some anchors. Rap to the West above Fledgeling and Fully Fledged.

Location

This route is on the North end of the West Face of the Owl Rock. It is distinguished by being the handcrack though the body-length roof, to it's right side.

Protection

Take a set of cams from small to 3"

Photos

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icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
there's a hornets nest in the obvious finger pocket when traversing left through the owl shit/piss ledge to the roof crack. Beware. Sand bag anyone? Sep 1, 2008
Yep! Sep 11, 2008
pretty damn hard. Sep 16, 2008
S. O.
logan,ut
 
S. O.   logan,ut
 
Climbed it this weekend, didn't see a hornet's nest. Sep 29, 2008
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Sooo hard. I think I can jam pretty good, but it is so steep and no feet til you are practically done with the crux. I had to yard off a few pieces... Sep 5, 2010
Sandbag. I pulled on a few pieces.

I will say though that I think I made it harder by trying to protect above myself. While there is danger of hitting the ledge, a green metolius fairly well buried would have been better than the hand sized piece that I placed. The hand sized piece really prevented me from shuffling my hand jams into the really secure part of the crack. If you place more gear above that, you make it even harder. Better to have that #1 BD or green metolius fairly high and buried, and punch it IMO. Hind sight is 20/20. Sep 5, 2011

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