Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 229 total · 3/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Feb 3, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Climb Only When Open to Climbing Details

Description

This problem climbs the left side of the Dish boulder starting with the left hand on a circular dish and the right on a slanting ramp. Pull onto the wall and you can use an edge. Stand up and reach to the horizontal seam and there is a tiny finger pocket that you can use to balance. Then make a big committing move way up and left, the best place to aim for is a basketballish shaped area on the lip perhaps 3 feet right of the left arete and then mantel. The left arete is off and should not come into play anyway. The way I always did it was fun and dynamic.

A fun variation called Buck Dance Direct at V4+ is to head straight up the even blanker scoop just above the start holds to a even slopier top out that is directly above. There are even fewer holds to aid in the stand up. Top out maybe 4 feet right of the regular problem spot, about 6 feet right of the boulder's left arete. Do not use any of the jugs on the lip like can be used for the Dish problems. You will be groping and reaching way back from the lip onto the rounded top to mantel.

The left arete and face can be climbed as a layback at about V0.

Location

Cool looking left side of the Dish slab.

Protection

Pads and a spotter as there is a rock in the landing zone.

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