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Areas in Governor Stable

Breadloaf & Immediate Vicinity 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Cave, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Circuit 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Creekside & The Split Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Herr Brothers 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Moby's and Friends 0 / 0 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Pedal Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pyramid Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Warm-up Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Elevation: 491 ft
GPS: 40.132, -76.695 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,132 total · 615/month
Shared By: Seth Derr on Dec 30, 2011 with updates from Byron Igoe
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Private Property Climb Only When Open to Climbing Details

Description

Governor Stable has a long history of access issues. It is located on private properety and managed by a non-profit organization known as SCPC (South Central Pennsylvania Climbers). Thanks to the efforts of this organization and a successful 2015 Bouldering Competition, climbing at Governor Stable is free for the 2016 season, which runs until 8/31/2016. Camping is not allowed at Governor Stable. The closest camping is the Elizabethtown KOA.

Governor Stable Nature Preserve is located just off of Route 441 in the small villiage of Bainbridge, outside of Middletown, Pennsylvania. The rock is diabase, much like Mount Gretna and Haycock, which provides a style of climbing unique to this part of the country. Many of the problems are friction based, meaning the best time to climb at GS is the dead of winter when the humidity is low and the temperatures are ripe for sending. That being said, spring and summer ain't bad either, just be sure to check yourself for ticks throughout your visit. The boulders at GS are much more condensed than those at Gretna, contained to an area of just over 30 acres. Despite it's smaller size, there are nearly as many established problems as the area at Governor Dick, most of them very high quality. And while it seems like there are a lot rules governing the climbing here, i can assure you that once you arrive you will have a bouldering experience unlike any other, where friendly folks and amazing lines come together to make this little boulderfield a truly special place. Come see for yourself.

A new full color 2nd edition guidebook assembled by Kevin Catlin and Ryan Shipp are available for purchase atfriendsofgs.org. The new book is also available at gyms and climbing shops throughout the area.

Ryan Shipp also released a digital version of the guidebook with Gunks Apps (gunksapps.com/governor.html).

Getting There

From the Harrisburg area and all points North and West: Find one of the many access points to 441 South and follow it through Middletown, past Three Mile Island on your right, until you come to Turnpike Road. Make a left on Turnpike and drive until you see Governor Stable Road on your right. Follow it to Conoy Township Park. PARK IN THE STONE PARKING LOT AT THE PARK! Walk down the hill and across a small one lane bridge, careful of traffic now, then cut into the woods on the obvious path.

Use the GPS Cooridnates listed above to reach the parking lot. DO NOT PARK ANYWHERE EXCEPT THE STONE PARKING LOT

133 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Governor Stable

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 22
The Scoop
Boulder
V0 4
 15
Private Slabby
Boulder
V1 5
 25
The Pyramid
Boulder
V1 5
 16
Mushroom Crack
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 21
Ballarete
Boulder
V4- 6B
 7
Tomb Traverse
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Apex
Boulder
V4 6B
 10
Breadloaf Arete
Boulder
V5 6C
 12
Moby's Dick
Boulder
V5 6C
 11
Juggernaut
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Herr Left
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Low Ride
Boulder
V5 6C
 15
Cobra
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Karmic Power
Boulder
V7 7A+
 6
Herr Right
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Scoop Warm-up Area
 22
V0 4 Boulder
Private Slabby Warm-up Area
 15
V0 4 Boulder
The Pyramid Pyramid Area
 25
V1 5 Boulder
Mushroom Crack Moby's and Friends
 16
V1 5 Boulder
Ballarete Warm-up Area
 21
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Tomb Traverse Pyramid Area
 7
V4- 6B Boulder
Apex Circuit
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Breadloaf Arete Breadloaf & Immediate…
 10
V4 6B Boulder
Moby's Dick Moby's and Friends
 12
V5 6C Boulder
Juggernaut Moby's and Friends
 11
V5 6C Boulder
Herr Left Herr Brothers
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Low Ride Circuit
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Cobra Breadloaf & Immediate…
 15
V5 6C Boulder
Karmic Power Warm-up Area
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Herr Right Herr Brothers
 6
V7 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Governor Stable »

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Photos

Jeffrey West
Anywhere, USA
Jeffrey West   Anywhere, USA
This area is open. You must register on the website and daily or yearly passes CAN ONLY BE PURCHASED ONLINE! Mar 27, 2013
Access is open for the year. Dates for this year are January 15 - August 31.

No charge for day passes as the competition and other donations covered the lease for the year!

scpclimbers.org/governor-st… Jan 29, 2017
Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
Governor Stable is open as of Dec 16, 2017 - August 31st, 2018. Please consider donating to help renew the lease for the 2018-2019 season. Donations can be made to SCPC here: scpclimbers.org/take-action/

$20.00 goes a long way. See you at the boulders! Dec 18, 2017

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