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Routes in Driftwood Boulder

Minnesotan Drift Wood V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Caleb Holte
Page Views: 143 total, 2/month
Shared By: Hoez on Jan 23, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start in a jug right on the lip coming up from an amazing (if it weren't chossy) cave. Basically campus into another jug, find a good foot (drop knee, toe jam, heel hook, wtv), and make an enormous move up and out left to a diagonal, left handed, crimp **crux**.

Hold on and maintain tension, moving up to another crimp with your right, and from this point on - hold on until the top...V5 +/- once you get your hands on the larger crimps.

Location

This line is found, if looking at Francesca - directly behind you, to your left (7 o'clock)... about 15 yards back, within view site. Down a "hill" if you will... you'll see the big overhang. The route starts down under in a jug right at the lip.

Protection

A pad.

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V9-10
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V9-10
I agree that this is not V11, but a good candidate for a V9/10 slash grade. I can definitely see how Caleb ruptured a tendon as well...offset feet and small crimps, with connective tissue absorbing the majority of the movement. Nov 23, 2014
Coffmann
  V9
Coffmann  
  V9
Agreed that it feels more in the V8-9 range than V11. Incredibly lichen-y, required more pads to clean it than to actually send it.
EDIT: Might be worth noting that I'm a bit over 6', so none of the moves are that reachy for me. I'm able to do the cross to the good half-moon with the heel-toe lock. Oct 7, 2014
Hoez
Uganda
 
Hoez   Uganda
 
@Hoboken, this line was sent, and when I went out for a 2nd ascent, I blew a tendon and have thus been out from climbing this whole last year. Lichen doesn't grow fast- it just hasn't seen a lot of traffic. Sep 15, 2014
Hoboken
  V9-10
Hoboken  
  V9-10
This prob threw me a bit. Firstly it wasn't so clean, lots of lichen on the crimps above the jugs which made the line hard to spot. Guess that stuff grows quick out here. Anyway it was quite fun and challenging. My only recommendation would be to straighten out that landing a bit and clean her up real good (the upper half while easy needs some serious love). If I had more time here, I'd gladly do this as the line deserves to be noticed. Nice one, Hoez. Nov 28, 2013