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Routes in Hall of Justice

Magneto Effect S M9
Pull the Trigger, Tigga S M11+
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M11 PG13
Wonder Woman's Wobbler S M10
Zero to Hero S M12
Type: Sport, Mixed, 90 ft
FA: Jason Nelson & Marc Beverly
Page Views: 598 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bryan Gilmore on Jan 7, 2013
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs pretty much right out the middle of the cave. Stopping at the first set of chains is a great warm up and about M8. If you choose not to stop, you'll find great holes for your picks, but the angle is relentless, and if you're short, a few moves may seem BIG! Regardless, once you pull out the first huge roof, there's a bit of respite before a big stein-pull and some delicate slab work where the holes seem to run out. Regroup here and launch out the arĂȘte on your right. As of now, you just climb to the last fixed draw, 3 or 4 bolts up the arĂȘte. Lower from here or chossaneer up slabby terrain to anchor. Bring slings to fix lowering station.

Location

This climbs out the middle of cave. The name is in chalk at base of route.

Protection

It should be fixed. If not, you'll want about 20 draws.

Photos

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Jason Nelson 1
Ouray, CO
 
Jason Nelson 1   Ouray, CO
 
Here is a video of the route: youtube.com/watch?v=zzgbAjG…
This video was done prior to the route being extended. Now it continues straight up above the lip of the cave, out a roof, and onto the arete of the arch the forms on the right side of the cave. Once the angle eases on the arete, step left into the dihedral and head to a two bolt anchor. You'll want a 60m rope.
Oh, and Marc Beverly also deserves credit for helping to bolt this line with me. Oct 31, 2013
There is a set of top out chains when you finish the route up past the arete, out left. You don't have to lower off a fixed draw. Feb 5, 2013
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
The Frenchies came and called it D11+ if you go beyond the original lowering bolt and up the arete. Jan 8, 2013