Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Gotwols 1980's
Page Views: 495 total · 7/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Begin on runnel with a tree frozen in it. Narrow with fun moves on solid pick holds. Hook tree and exit to next ice flow. Above that move far left on ledge (rock climbing trail) to reconnect to main flow. Move up this to a big belay ledge with trees. There are enough trees for anchors. On the 110 foot first pitch I only used trees. I could have only used screws. The second pitch goes over a bulge and then goes left with the ice becoming less and less until snow is taken to the top for a belay from the trees. Didn't seem like it but the rope was about 90 feet to the trees. I put in a screw and only brought one screw. I could have put in at least two more on easy ice. The route is separated by steep snow a lot with frozen dirt for tool placements sometimes. That's why its called boulder problems.

Location

Go straight up from the east end of the main cliff small parking lot, a very short distance. This climb is just right uphill from the main widest flow.
Walk off right or east to reach a stream and follow it down far right of it and then go down to the parking lot. Better to rappel if your unfamiliar with the area for descent or walk west towards Kennel Wall Trail.

Protection

6 to 8 screws, or a few screws and several shoulder slings and one much longer sling is convenient for belaying.

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

The first pitch finishes up the ice right in the photo. This picture was taken lower and opposite to the climb. The trees before the upper flow is the belay ledge for the second pitch.
The first pitch finishes up the ice right in th…
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Second belay tree ledge
Second belay tree ledge
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The first pitch traverse ledge goes from right to left in photo and is the iced rock climbing trail. Picture taken in woods above Approach Slab.
The first pitch traverse ledge goes from right…
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Dinner plating.
Dinner plating.
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The climb finishes at the old pine tree, that is so, fat. The low branch is as big as a large tree.
The climb finishes at the old pine tree, that i…
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Start of second pitch.
Start of second pitch.
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Marvelous
Marvelous
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And another tree.
And another tree.
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Then there was the tree
Then there was the tree
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In the beginning
In the beginning
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Joe Adam, belayed, Justin took all the photographs and we missed getting a picture of him.
Joe Adam, belayed, Justin took all the photogra…
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The start is above the snow.
The start is above the snow.
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5 Comments

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Judging by the photo this is actually part of The G Spot and not at Orange Crush. Just to the right of the sport route Drip of Fools. This should be moved in the proper area. I will volunteer to write up the area if you would like Bradley... Jan 6, 2013
bradley white
Bend
  WI3
bradley white   Bend
  WI3
I will have to rewrite the description to Orange crush. I put G Spot with it. I'm beginning to think my idea of keeping it simplified to a few areas isn't working. I know the G Spot area except for these lower two routes. I don't have it in mind to refer to rock climbs to get to ice routes unless there related to each other. I will write up the area since I know where the ice is located. Most are short routes like the G Spot routes and connected to the upper wall. Some might not come in enough for screws.
The route description referred to being in the G Spot with the fixed rope and all mentioned. The tie off to the fixed rope was down left of where we started. The guide book puts the fixed rope at Kagels and locks. To the left of us was the fixed rope to go west to the main flow and rock climbing routes.
Thanks for volunteering and I could include one sport route reference to a potential climb. I don't know where Drip of fools is but by guide book it seems down left of where we started.
Really weird this area has not seen ice climbing traffic before. I saw it from the trail down from Kennel Wall. I don't know how to move Boulder Problems to the G Spot area and it will likely have to be done by an administrator. Now I've gone and done it again, Matt. My idiocy to repeat processes has expenditure by others that must get involved to have it reset up. It seems I got away with putting Makamah Road in the Hinterlands? I didn't get away with it this area. So be it.
I've pretty much figured this place out for winter except this bolted climb on the trail to 'Bumpin the Gate' that has a pink ribbon tied below it.
Jan 7, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
As long as it all is under "Ice Climbing", it is probably all right. Mental confusion and ice climbing go hand in hand, no? :))) jk

Once you have the correct areas set up properly, if you need any thing moved, just let an admin know, Bradley, and it is no problem.

Relating the ice routes to commonly know rock routes if they are nearby will help clarify locations. Jan 7, 2013
bradley white
Bend
  WI3
bradley white   Bend
  WI3
Since your onto what's happening I need to move boulder problems and all it photos to G Spot area. I don't want to delete everything and start over and it might be too late to do that with comments attached too it. So Mark can you do me a favor, please and move this stuff, thank you, Brad Jan 7, 2013
Tim Gotwols
Holderness NH
Tim Gotwols   Holderness NH
Boulder Problems as a route name? You didn't really think no one had been up there before, did you? Or is it only a route if you take a rope and gear with you? I first "bouldered" those flows in the late 80's, I'm sure I wasn't the first. For the record, I did once use a rope! Sep 7, 2014