Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Queen Anne's Head

East Face/Queen Anne's Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gil-O-tine T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
South Arete T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stranger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Joe Mills?
Page Views: 906 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tank Evans on Nov 9, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Five Year Plan's long lost brother, Gil-O-Tine climbs a short, thin crack near an arete and requires both strong jamming skills and finger strength. The rock, movement, and gear are great; throw in an excellent bouldering wall at the base for a warm-up (The Ghetto) and striking position, and it makes for an awesome day out. It's a short route but all business, and it gets 4 stars for a short route.


This is located on the severly overhanging west face of Queen Anne's Head. Approach as for The Ghetto and simply top out one of the problems and continue up the easy slab (5.4) above for 30 feet. The tower will be directly infront of you.


Singles #0.3-#3 with double #0.4 (Camalots).