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Routes in Queen Anne's Head

East Face/Queen Anne's Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gil-O-tine T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
South Arete T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stranger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Matt Samet, Josh Deuto
Page Views: 59 total, 0/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route climbs an interesting groove feature on the steep west face of Queen Anne's Head, the jutting pinnacle low on the south side of the 3rd Flatiron. Access the pinnacle either via the 1911 Gully (the gully paralleling the south side of the Flatiron's East Face) or by scrambling up from the Ghetto.

A large ledge feature runs along the base of the very overhanging west face. Step on (unprotected )at the obvious notch right of center and traverse right along the crack for about ten feet, until you can stand up. Climb directly up the red-brown face above on positive holds, moving left along a horizontal fluting to finish.

Protection

This is a short route, so you won't need tons of gear. Bring a set of stoppers, a #4 Camalot, a #2 Camalot and two #1 Camalots or pieces of equivalent size. You'll also need gear for the belay, though you can belay off of fixed rappel anchors at the top of the spire.

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