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Routes in Bella Vista Slab

Bella Vista T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bella Vista to Benediction [Linkup] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Benediction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Bon Chance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Le Jeur de Bon Heures T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Leftover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 510 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: 2012
Page Views: 976 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 6, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A long, fun jaunt up the side of Crane Mountain. The top of this route is open and the view is excellent.
P1 110' 5.4 PG: Climb the slab up and right, running it out on friction 25' to the first bolt. Continue weaving upward, following clean patches and bolts, to a right-facing corner. Hop left, up on this, and make a semi-hanging belay.
P2 90' 5.5 G 5.3 R: Climb a short vertical crack, then the slab above, moving up and slightly left to a flap. Go over this and up the unprotected slab above to the left of two short vertical cracks to the right of a steep headwall. Climb through this and make a belay (use the spruce tree).
P3 40' 5.7 PG 5.2 R: Climb up the headwall using a short vertical crack and the face to its left. Walkable slab leads to a slightly steeper end at a spruce tree anchor.
P4 100' 5.3 R: Step right onto the main slab and make a few dicey moves to the first gear at 25', then continue up easing slab to a point by a spruce tree on the left. Step into the wooded patch at an oak tree with a horizontal branch, and belay.
P5 200' 5.5 G 5.3 R: Scramble left, over blocks, onto a low-angle slab. Work up to its upper left end at a vertical crack in a steeper slab (possible to belay here). Climb the crack and short slab above its end to a stance, step left to a series of shallow scoops beside a seam and go up these to a stance below 2 small spruce trees. Step right around these and climb to the top. There are cracks where a gear belay can be established, or you can stretch the rope out to trees in the woods.

Location

At the lowest point of the slab above and climber's left of the Belleview Slab.
Descent: walk climber's right, traversing along a narrow ledge to reach a brushy gully. Walk down this gully to the lowest of several spruce trees, where there is a rappel anchor, near the top of Benediction. Rappel anchors lie along the general line of Bella Vista all the way down from here.

Protection

Standard Rack. While the crux move is well-protected, be aware that there are many 5.3 R runouts along the way.
JSW
JSW  
FYI- there was a fairly severe injury on this route last weekend. During the descent over the crux headwall the repellee lost lateral stability swinging left off the corner. She hit the back of her head. Please take care especially with less experience climbers. Jul 6, 2017
Jay Harrison  
 
Hi Kevin,
Whether the pro grade changes or not is a matter of opinion. There are still some substantial runouts, but the fixed gear greatly alleviates the risk-factor in these places; given that the areas are low-angle slab, there's a good chance a fall, even at the maximum in the fifth-class sections, would not result in serious injury. Compared to the runouts on, for example, Roger's Rock routes, Bella Vista would now be "G" rated.
But a few of the falls could be extensive, and on any long fall, risk of broken ankles or inversion is elevated. While a broken ankle is not considered serious, it certainly ruins the day - and as you and I are very aware - can be a life-changing event. While my "old-school" training is aware of these facts and takes it into consideration, there is a modern trend to differentiate between "no injury likely" and "medical attention required injury possible". My head sees no difference; the most trivial, "safe" falls can result in option B, while some of the scariest huge whippers can (and the plethora of online videos depict) be harmless. But the latest generation, raised on plastic and overhanging rock, does.
So I have not changed the pro rating on this one yet. We old-schoolers will be pampered, new-school folks will be informed.
I am sorry I was away the day you came up. I've wanted to see and climb with you for awhile, and of course, the one day I'm off the mountain, you visited. Let's try to get together before the season is out. May 6, 2017
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Some of the description on this could use some updating, there's some bolts now on the areas of unprotected slab which help the head a lot. The safety of the climb does go up, but I'm not sure if the few bolts that were added actually change the overall safety grades. Apr 29, 2017