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> Group Campsite 3
> Tiny Dancer Wall
Mini Firewater Chimney
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Tiny Dancer Wall
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Don't Bump The Glump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Freeze Frame T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Indian Creek Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lord Jim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mini Firewater Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tiny Applicator T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Tiny Dancer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.9989, -116.1195 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,062 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Slagle on Sep 3, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb is located in a chasm behind the main wall. Walk around Indian Creek Crack and make your way into the corridor. The corridor is about 3 feet wide and its sort of a chimney climb. The route is like a mini firewater chimney climb with a few bolts and tops out where the other routes on the main wall are. Start the climb stemming up to the first bolt. There is a short crack to the left that we got gear into to make it to the next bolt. The 2nd bolt has a partner for some reason 2 feet parallel (we only clipped one). There is another bolt 15 feet up that you can clip from a ledge with a quick link on it. We used this as a directional and belayed from the top rock behind the corridor. Fun different route.
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