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Routes in Campsite Area (Campsite 3)

Don't Bump The Glump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Freeze Frame T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Indian Creek Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord Jim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tiny Applicator T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Tiny Dancer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 353 total · 5/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If you start with the first moves of Tiny Dancer then go up and left into the thin crack, its 5.6, go straight up without the crack on the right, 5.7. The crux is at the start, but you can reach up and slot a solid nut about 10 feet up. The next 12 feet or so is unprotected and thin, I was able to get another nut in between two pinches that was mediocre. Once you get into the crack the pro is fine.

Protection

Gear. Nuts and Cams. Gear anchor on top 15 feet back. Walk off to the climbers right of Freeze Frame.

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
I got a seemingly ok .1 x4 in maybe 10 feet up, but they're known to be finicky. First textbook pro comes about halfway up. Depending on the pro you have, seemed on the riskier end of PG-13 or even R rated. Oct 3, 2016

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