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Routes in Dead Cholla Wall

Back to the Creek T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blind Faith S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bob..it S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Connected T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doc's Dangle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drift Away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Either Or S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Esmerelda S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Festival sin Peliculas T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun in the Sun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Games S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Flows S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leave It To Bob T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Liquid Skin T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One for the Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Season T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Connected T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Somebody Loaned Me a Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Special Ed S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Twisted Feet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 315 total · 5/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Aug 14, 2012
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Begin in a nice dihedral with decent pro to get you to the first ledge. Step right and head straight up a broken crack system to the anchors on top of the climb just left of Esmerelda.

I took the "name" of this in the Foley guide to mean it was 5.8, but would call it significantly easier than that. I thought 5.6, but Hanna following me suggested 5.7, so there you have it.

Location

The trad line two climbs left of Esmerelda that is climb #22 in the Foley Guide.

Protection

A single rack of cams to #4 will do you fine. I placed a .75, .5, 2 and 4. But, there are plenty of options and I only took the #4 because I had it and there was an obvious placement for it. Solid gear and plenty of it on the whole route.

Photos

Greg Gaskin
Bay Area, CA
Greg Gaskin   Bay Area, CA
There is a three bolt anchor on the flat top of the rock after topping out that you can set up with a long cordalette. The three bolts are obvious on the approach trail to the crag. Apr 25, 2014