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Routes in Dead Cholla Wall

Back to the Creek T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blind Faith S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bob..it S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Connected T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doc's Dangle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drift Away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Either Or S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Esmerelda S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Festival sin Peliculas T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun in the Sun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Games S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Flows S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leave It To Bob T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Liquid Skin T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One for the Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Season T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Connected T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Somebody Loaned Me a Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Special Ed S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Twisted Feet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,531 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A quality arête route. Clip a very well-placed bolt just over the roof at the blocky start before going into the thin, technical crux of the route getting up to, and past, the second bolt. Then enjoy fun face and arête climbing to the anchor.
The route steepens near the top but the holds are juggy making for some great position and moves.

Location

This is the next to last bolted route on the far end of the wall, just left of the route Leave it to Bob which has gray hangers.
It's easily identifiable by the undercut, blocky start to the nice arête above.

Protection

5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Like many of the anchors at Dead Cholla, there are no lowering chains on these anchors. We just left our draws on the bolts and grabbed them from the top on our way out. On this route, it's a bit of a stretch to grab the draws from the top but there is another set of bolts up on top so one could set a TR very easily.

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arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
I completely agree -- I assign stars for a given area, not relative to ALL the classic climbs. So, given the 3 quick jaunts I've had to this area, this is definitely my favorite climb. So, for the area I can understand 4 stars....but, give it 3 simply b/c it's so short, as they all are out here. Aug 14, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there. Oct 21, 2011
tim naylor  
 
four stars? good route for dead cholla wall but most routes seem awkward. one move wonder? Oct 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11
Tradiban  
  5.11
Not as good as Twisted Feet but this was still very good. I had trouble with the third clip, best to move to the holds to the right of it before clipping, however those moves were a little insecure so I maxed out my reach and clipped from the good stance, that wouldn't be possible for someone under 6ft. May 19, 2011

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