Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Ed Jaramillo, Cayce Weber
Page Views: 1,588 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Description

Another quality face and arête route on great rock involving some arête slapping and crimpy edging. Start at the undercut rock with a bush in the crack on the left. Pull up over the undercut on positive flake edges and face climbing past a horizontal crack for your first piece. More face climbing with thin moves between nice horizontal cracks takes you past a couple of bolts before getting into the crux on the blunt arête.

Take time to ponder your route up higher and choose whether to stay just left of the arête, on the arête or just right of the arête or all three.

Location

This route is closer to the left end of the wall. It's easily identified as the beautiful, dark rock arête.
See the route topo photo for Open Season for location.

Protection

A small cam (.4 or .5 BD camalot) in the nice horizontal crack at about 12 feet and then 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Like many of the anchors at Dead Cholla, there are no lowering chains on these anchors. We just left our draws on the anchors and grabbed them from the top on our way out.

Photos