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Routes in Dead Cholla Wall

Back to the Creek T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blind Faith S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bob..it S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Connected T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doc's Dangle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drift Away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Either Or S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Esmerelda S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Festival sin Peliculas T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun in the Sun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Games S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Flows S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leave It To Bob T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Liquid Skin T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One for the Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Season T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Re-Connected T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Somebody Loaned Me a Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Special Ed S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Twisted Feet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for the Sun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ed Jaramillo, Cayce Weber
Page Views: 944 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Another quality face and arête route on great rock involving some arête slapping and crimpy edging. Start at the undercut rock with a bush in the crack on the left. Pull up over the undercut on positive flake edges and face climbing past a horizontal crack for your first piece. More face climbing with thin moves between nice horizontal cracks takes you past a couple of bolts before getting into the crux on the blunt arête.

Take time to ponder your route up higher and choose whether to stay just left of the arête, on the arête or just right of the arête or all three.

Location

This route is closer to the left end of the wall. It's easily identified as the beautiful, dark rock arête.
See the route topo photo for Open Season for location.

Protection

A small cam (.4 or .5 BD camalot) in the nice horizontal crack at about 12 feet and then 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Like many of the anchors at Dead Cholla, there are no lowering chains on these anchors. We just left our draws on the anchors and grabbed them from the top on our way out.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
Staying left moves this climb into 12 territory, I think, given the slopers and the overhang. It was a MUCH harder finish than the rest of the climb, for sure. But, because it's so ambiguous with that last bolt, and that you can go right without "straying", it's an 11 to 11+ climb (for the ones I've done at this crag). Aug 14, 2012
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
This route was great but the ending left me confused. I wanted to stay left of the arete but the easier finish was to stay right. The line was probably better to the left but a letter grade or two harder. May 19, 2011