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Routes in Right Side

"R" is for Redneck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
30 Seconds on Fremont Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in the Saddle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boob Loob S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Britchen Strap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bull of the West S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Slate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diamonds and Rain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Sally S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drinking Dry Clouds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Duke, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guns of Diablo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hangin' Tree S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine What I Could Do to Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
John Wayne S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vaca Peligrosa S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Licorice Stick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nouveau Western S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pistol and Holster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pronghorn Pinnacle S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ride Me Cowgirl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rio Bravo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rodeo Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rooster Cogburn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Saddle Tramp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saddle Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddled Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solace of Bolted Faces, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugar Foot S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ticks for chicks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Western Grip S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When the Man Comes Around S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Whips Chaps and Chains S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrong End of a Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
a man from laramie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
wind river muzzel loaders S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jeremy Rowan
Page Views: 387 total · 5/month
Shared By: rowbag on Aug 1, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Dirty Sally

Somewhat wandering climbing via pockets up face. Pockets have proved to be consistently sandy for some reason. Turned out to be a decent route.

Updated 6/10/18
Start with the shallow crack/corner about 10 feet right of Ride Me Cowgirl. Follow the holds up and slightly right into the large scar left from a flake. Traverse directly left from the good stance in the flake scar. From there climb pockets straight up to the small bulge. Climb up onto the ledge and have a rest before finishing off the last few moves of the upper headwall to the anchors. There are two different ways to climb to the anchors; the traditional sequence straight up from the ledge, or climb directly left from the ledge and do a long move to a sinker pocket left of the last bolt and finish straight up. Clipping jug above and right of new Glue In anchors.
New Glue-ins added 6/10/18 to make the route safer, especially the top, and now well protected for the new .10 leader.
-Rowbag

Location

Right of Ride Me Cowgirl and left of The Man From Laramie.

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors

Update 6/10/18
9 glue-in bolts to glue-in anchors with "clip and lower" hooks.
Please TR and lower on your own carabiners. The permanent anchors should be used to lower from only once per climbing party to make them last as long as possible.

Photos

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Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Wanders in and out of seam to face. Fun climb. Found it clean. Well bolted, good pockets. Aug 16, 2014
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.10b PG13
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.10b PG13
Very fun movement. I'm not sure it's well bolted for a leader at the grade though.
Goign to the anchors, the climbing is probably 5.9 or so and I think there is nasty ledge fall potential.

It's a great route, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it for someone breaking into the mid ten range. Aug 8, 2016
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
Partner took the "nasty ledge fall" yesterday. Watch yourself as you go to clip the anchors Jul 4, 2017
Sam Joe Carl
Phoenix, AZ
 
Sam Joe Carl   Phoenix, AZ
 
Dont let that ledge get into your head going for the anchor! I found Ride Me Cowgirl, this route's next door neighbor, to be a lot more enjoyable and fun. Sep 3, 2017
rowbag
Lander, Wyoming
  5.10b
rowbag   Lander, Wyoming
  5.10b
I retro bolted this route of mine since I didn't do a satisfactory job the first time around. Apologies to all for the top section and ledge fall. This route has been upgraded from 6 bolts to 9 glue-in bolts and the glue-in anchors have been moved left to help prevent climbing unnecessarily to far right from the ledge. It is still a little bit of an exit move, but the holds are there and the bolt placement should prevent any ledge falls. There are very good pockets next to the anchor and a huge jug above the anchor.
I hope these updates help make this route more enjoyable for all. Jun 17, 2018
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
I climbed this last year and then again a few days ago. Hats way way off to rowbag for rebolting this especially at the top. My partner took a ledge fall last year and the new bolting avoids that. Sweet route on beautiful fun pockets. Had a grin on my face the whole time Jul 7, 2018

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