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Routes in Caretaker Boulder

Igemma V3 6A
Stihl V0+ 4+
To a Grave V5 6C
Undercarriage V4 6B
Undertaker V6 7A R
Zerreissen V4 6B
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total, 6/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Aug 1, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Before even thinking about doing this problem, get a bevy of pads and spotters. Or don't, and play the tough-guy. Definitely one of the more committing highball-ish problems at Skofield, with a "death" boulder below.

Either way, this problem hasn't been courted too much since the 90's, and only recently has seen attention from local climbers. And while its obscurity isn't surprising given the nature of the fall-zone, the movement is (in my opinion) as good as To a Grave. After easy moves down low, turn the lip on to bad holds. Crux is at the top.

Location

The roadside aspect of the Caretaker Boulder. Just right of To a Grave, and just left of Undercarriage. Sit-start on boulder.

Protection

Pads and ninja-spotters.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
The first time I really went for it on this problem, I hadn't cleaned the top hold and slipped, mid-crux, my body completely askew. I plummeted, pinged off the boulder, and smacked near the road, on my back.

But my spotters rocked, and so did the two pads we brought. They kept me from hitting pavement, and shielded sundry vital appendages from grazing the "death" boulder. I sent minutes later, motivated by the knowledge that I could indeed fall—and be safe.

Everyone should have some badass, fully-committed spotters. Seriously. And everyone should BE badass, committed spotters. Just saying. Aug 1, 2012