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Routes in Dark West Face

Fools Progress, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey Home, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Katchina S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Head S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: Durf and Troy
Page Views: 3,633 total, 56/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is a two pitch route that starts in the gulley west of the ridge and joins The Journey Home at the beginning of its fourth pitch.

PITCH ONE: Bolts and pins up a beautiful slab to a two bolt anchor on a mini ledge/alcove.

PITCH TWO: Bolts and pins out a roof, up a thin face to and anchor on the "gangplank." This routes stays in the shade longer than The Journey Home


On the right (west) side of the ridge.


A small rack, quickdraws, slings, one rope.
Stevie Nacho
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Glad you liked this area as much as I do. I was never a fan of waiting in line for routes, therefore I like to ditch away from the crowds in areas like this. Our goal was to put up enough routes that more than one party could climb there.

As of two weeks ago, there are a few of the suspect Austria Alpin knifeblades on this route. I didn't have a hammer nor anything to replace them with. The yare in an area that is heavily protected therefore I wouldn't worry too much. When I get the chance, I am going to go up with some BD knifeblades and replace them.

tda Aug 23, 2015
Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Fun and fairly consistent climbing in the 5.9 range. Third pitch might is excellent. Take it to the top. Careful on the descent to not miss the 2nd rap station. Lots of hard work put into this route and an excellent find. Thanks! Aug 22, 2015
cdec   SLC, UT
Super fun. No rack required for the 2 pitches, well protected with bolts and pins. If you finish up on the last pitch of Journey bring a BD .5 and .75 and the whole route is well protected.
Recommend going to the top for and excellent 3 pitch outing. Aug 22, 2014