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Routes in Dark West Face

Fools Progress, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Journey Home, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Katchina S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Head S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: dudes from Tooele
Page Views: 2,158 total, 33/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This was the first route in the area and ascends the middle of the face via four pitches. Each pitch ends at a ledge with a bolted anchor.

PITCH ONE: Climb straight up past three shiny bolts to a ledge that leads to a lieback crack Plug some cams and send to the next ledge with a chain anchor.

PITCH TWO: Climb up and right via a crack. Clip a pin and bolts through a reachy bulge (5.10). Above this bulge, follow the ridge past more cracks, pins, and bolts to a big ledge. Clip the anchor at the back of the ledge. Note: there is an option at the start of this pitch to climb the cracks directly above the anchor and arch right above the bulge then follow the ridge to the top of the pitch (5.6)

PITCH THREE. Climb the beautiful sheer face past cracks, bolts, and pins to a great ledge an another chain anchor.

PITCH FOUR: Walk west via the ledge and move the belay to an exposed anchor at the end of the "gang plank." Climb directly above this anchor past cracks, bolts, and edges to the top of the sheer wall and a chain anchor.

DESCENT: via raps down chain anchors to the gulley to the west.

Location

Follow the trail past orange ribbons to the base of the ridge. This route starts about 100 feet up from the actual toe of the ridge. You know you are at the base when you see three fixe hangers in a short face above a great ledge. There is the option to start free soloing from the toe of the ridge till you reach the start of The Journey Home. The first bolt of this route has an orange ribbon tied on it. This route starts up a steep slab with holds.

Protection

A rack of cams up to a 3 camalot, slings, quickdraws. One rope will facilitate a descent. Double in sizes aren't necessary.
John Martin2
Salt Lake City, UT
John Martin2   Salt Lake City, UT
2nd pitch 5.10 section is protected by bolts and makes pitch worthwhile. Pitch 3 was my favorite with some thin moves. Pitch 4 was good too but the bong piton is cracked like someone said. Not sure why its there when a BD .75 fits perfectly, so I passed on clipping the piton. The giant chain at the top was pretty amusing. Overall a fun route, thanks! Jul 9, 2017
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Gear beta for me: 10-12 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, BD camalots from .4-1 (doubles in .5 and .75) and a few nuts.
There's a hidden piton on pitch 3 in a pod. I used a .4 Camelot X4 (grey) in the finger crack below it to avoid a long runout.
The Bong piton in the middle of P4 is cracked - backed it up with a .75 camalot immediately underneath it.
I hauled up my BD 2, 3, and 4, and never used them. Aug 29, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
P1: The huge block at the top which forms one side of the crack you place gear in seems like it'll completely detach one day, so tread lightly. (5.7)
P2: has that workaround to avoid the 5.10 moves at the first bolt. (5.6 or 5.10)
P3: Stellar! Wish it was twice as long! (5.8)
P4: A little loose and very airy. This pitch was the crux of the climb for me, at the very last bolt. (5.8) Aug 29, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Getting down can be done in 2 rappels with a 60m rope. Check out a picture or two to get a better idea of how it goes. Aug 29, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
A little tricky to find the start of the route so I took a picture and drew on it. Aug 29, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
NOTE: As Stevie mentioned and drew, to keep this route at or under 5.8, go straight up on the 2nd pitch from the anchors, skipping the first bolt (which would take you into a short 5.10 sequence) and traverse back in at the 2nd bolt to avoid the tough part and keep it 5.6ish. Aug 29, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
While not super clean nor sustained at the grade, this is a great route that deserves some more traffic. Nice job developers!

(FYI I split all my comments up so they're shorter, the mobile app cuts off many comments around the ~400 character mark) Aug 29, 2016
Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Nice route on good rock with great positions and stellar views. If only the pitches were a bit longer. Incredible effort though by the first ascensionists on developing the area. Lot of hardware hauled up there. Thanks for putting some fine alpine-ish moderate rambles! Aug 22, 2015
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
The last rap can be avoided by scrambling down the rocky gulley. We were thinking about removing that anchor but left it because the gulley may be different when it fills up with snow necessitating a rope to help lower down.
Also, the 5.10 on the second pitch can be avoided by climbing directly above the belay via a right angling crack/flake system. Follow the right angling system then traverse right over the roof to a bolt. Travel straight up from there. The variation is 5.7 and enjoyably exposed at the right traverse. Oct 8, 2012
split161  
 
thanks for putting these up, in all a fun climb!! didnt place any stoppers, just a set of cams will be plenty and some draws 12ish for the bolts.

finding the last rap station can be tricky...from the top rap to the bottom of the fourth pitch's "exposed anchors station" then straight down onto the slabby rock below to a one bolt/hanger with a rap hook which is impossible to see from above...then rap down into the gully(3 raps total)...fyi, the hanger and rap hook are loose on the last rap station Oct 8, 2012
cdec
SLC, UT
 
cdec   SLC, UT
 
Check out the Beta Photo of the wall on the main page. Helpful in figuring out which route is which. All the routes except The Fools Progress have shiny bolts.

Started on Katchina which works well. Great rock climbing, go do it. Jul 13, 2012