Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: dudes from Tooele
Page Views: 2,465 total · 29/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This was the first route in the area and ascends the middle of the face via four pitches. Each pitch ends at a ledge with a bolted anchor.

PITCH ONE: Climb straight up past three shiny bolts to a ledge that leads to a lieback crack Plug some cams and send to the next ledge with a chain anchor.

PITCH TWO: Climb up and right via a crack. Clip a pin and bolts through a reachy bulge (5.10). Above this bulge, follow the ridge past more cracks, pins, and bolts to a big ledge. Clip the anchor at the back of the ledge. Note: there is an option at the start of this pitch to climb the cracks directly above the anchor and arch right above the bulge then follow the ridge to the top of the pitch (5.6)

PITCH THREE. Climb the beautiful sheer face past cracks, bolts, and pins to a great ledge an another chain anchor.

PITCH FOUR: Walk west via the ledge and move the belay to an exposed anchor at the end of the "gang plank." Climb directly above this anchor past cracks, bolts, and edges to the top of the sheer wall and a chain anchor.

DESCENT: via raps down chain anchors to the gulley to the west.

Location

Follow the trail past orange ribbons to the base of the ridge. This route starts about 100 feet up from the actual toe of the ridge. You know you are at the base when you see three fixe hangers in a short face above a great ledge. There is the option to start free soloing from the toe of the ridge till you reach the start of The Journey Home. The first bolt of this route has an orange ribbon tied on it. This route starts up a steep slab with holds.

Protection

A rack of cams up to a 3 camalot, slings, quickdraws. One rope will facilitate a descent. Double in sizes aren't necessary.

Photos