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Routes in Nuke the Whales Wall

A Fine Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirt-Hedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Willie T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Lichen The Climb T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loyal Order of The Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuke The Whales T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orange Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Playing An Eliminate T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Save The Wails T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whale Of A Tale T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 361 total · 5/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Climb the small face on the pillar left of Orange Corner. Eliminate the use of anything right of the pillar(orange corner route) and don't climb left of the arete onto 'A Fine Line' territory for the full effect of this variation.

Climb on the face of the small pillar until you're forced to merge onto 'A Fine Line' about half way up. Climb 'A Fine Line' until you reach the roof on your right (A #4 cam left of the roof instills confidence for the crux roof).

I used double ropes for this route as I went for the onsight which helped on the mental side of things. Pulling the roof is hard to decipher but all the holds are there with plenty of exposure to freak a brother(or sister) out! Keep it together and scramble to the same anchor spot as 'A Fine Line' for a good top rope set up with minimal rope drag (you can use one side of the rope to climb 'A Fine Line' and the other to top rope this route).

Location

Left if Orange Corner

Protection

Standard Trad Rack

Natural Anchor (horizontal crack)

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