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Playing An Eliminate
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in 08. Nuke the Whales Wall
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A Fine Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirt-Hedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Free Willie T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Lichen The Climb T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Loyal Order of The Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nuke the Middle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nuke The Whales T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orange Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Playing An Eliminate T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Save The Wails T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whale Of A Tale T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, TR |
| GPS: | 35.23439, -81.27428 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,069 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Climb the small face on the pillar left of Orange Corner. Eliminate the use of anything right of the pillar(orange corner route) and don't climb left of the arete onto 'A Fine Line' territory for the full effect of this variation.
Climb on the face of the small pillar until you're forced to merge onto 'A Fine Line' about half way up. Climb 'A Fine Line' until you reach the roof on your right (A #4 cam left of the roof instills confidence for the crux roof).
I used double ropes for this route as I went for the onsight which helped on the mental side of things. Pulling the roof is hard to decipher but all the holds are there with plenty of exposure to freak a brother(or sister) out! Keep it together and scramble to the same anchor spot as 'A Fine Line' for a good top rope set up with minimal rope drag (you can use one side of the rope to climb 'A Fine Line' and the other to top rope this route).
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