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Surfing With The Alien
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Monolith Blocks
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Alexander's band T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crusty Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dumpster Diver T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Foil T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Foiled Again TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monolith Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Open Wide Burger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pink Panther T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Porcupine T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quill TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rapier T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Roy G. Biv Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rusty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shady Corner T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Surfing With The Alien TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Thumbs of Steel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | FTR Alex Andrews 1990 |
| Page Views: | 862 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Jul 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Route climbs the largest face on the largest single feature at Monolith Blocks. It lies to the right of the prominent 5.4 chimney route #10 page 199 3d Edition "Climbers Guide to Devil's Lake" and to the left and around the corner of route #8 (called "The Open Wide Burger" on MP.com). Climb starts by climbing lower groove at wall base center to gain a horizontal fracture and slopng foot ledges. Angle left here and use small horizontal edges and side pull weaknesses to gain the crux of the climb at the point where the climber passes through the visible small overhanging band. Gain a sizable flake while moving right towards the route's upper crack. I think this is a height dependent type of face climb. It may be 5.11b to a tall lanky climber and 5.11+ to shorter climbers. The name is a reference to a "Joe Satriani" album from the late 1980's. Am I wrong about that?
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