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Routes in Monolith Blocks

Dumpster Diver T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foil T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Foiled Again TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Wide Burger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quill TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Corner T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Surfing With The Alien TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thumbs of Steel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 104 total, 2/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Route climbs the largest face on the largest single feature at Monolith Blocks. It lies to the right of the prominent 5.4 chimney route #10 page 199 3d Edition "Climbers Guide to Devil's Lake" and to the left and around the corner of route #8 (called "The Open Wide Burger" on MP.com). Climb starts by climbing lower groove at wall base center to gain a horizontal fracture and slopng foot ledges. Angle left here and use small horizontal edges and side pull weaknesses to gain the crux of the climb at the point where the climber passes through the visible small overhanging band. Gain a sizable flake while moving right towards the route's upper crack. I think this is a height dependent type of face climb. It may be 5.11b to a tall lanky climber and 5.11+ to shorter climbers. The name is a reference to a "Joe Satriani" album from the late 1980's. Am I wrong about that?

Location

Monolith Blocks. Route climbs the most expansive and prominent face at Monolith and faces Devil's Lake directly west.

Protection

Some protection options but with sizable runouts for a lead attempt. Good small protection to be found in the upper crack. This would be a tough lead.

Photos

Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
You are right, it was named after the Joe Satriani album, I did the FA, in 1989 I'm tall and it was still hard, Sep 7, 2012