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Routes in Monolith Blocks

Dumpster Diver T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foil T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Foiled Again TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Wide Burger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quill TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Corner T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Surfing With The Alien TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thumbs of Steel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 192 total, 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 25, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A gorgeous crack! Starts off with steep fingers and hands, then turns into an off-width struggle at the top. Reminds me of "Via Apia".

Location

Heading South from Elephant Rock, pass the Tomahawk and the Monolith Blocks. Where the trail dips into a little saddle, beyond (South of) Monolith Blocks (and before the Monolith bouldering area), turn right (East) and walk North along the base of the rock for 10-20 yards.

N 43.42233
W 89.72404

Protection

Gear to 2-3 inches is adequate, but you'll appreciate gear to 8-10 inches for the upper offwidth.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
No real hand jams in the low to middle section of Rainbow Crack More like
off-with rattle fingers I would say. I found gear in all the little horizontals. I call this route 5.9.. especially on the onsight lead. Oct 23, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9
Doug's comparison to Via Apia is apt. If you've done that, enjoyed it, and found yourself dreaming of a harder version of it, then Rainbow Crack is for you. It's a fun offwidth (if you're into that sort of thing - not that there's anything wrong with that) and it climbs pretty well. My last three pieces were (in order) C4's #4, #5, #6 - and I was grateful to have the #6 C4 near the top. If you're sitting at the base and contemplating leaving the #6 behind; don't. Sep 27, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Went back and did this one a second time. It is possible to avoid most of the offwidth moves at the top, if you find just the right face holds. In that case, this might be more of a 5.8 than 5.9. Jul 4, 2012