Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 402 total · 5/month
Shared By: Benjamin F on Jul 4, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

The premiere line on the rarely visited "Willowwacks Wall". Would be 3-stars if it had a nice trail and better anchors.
Whether the hassle of the approach is worth the pay off is up to you, but this chimney/off-width/hand/finger crack formed by an overhung dihedral is among the cleanest routes on the quartzite formations.

P1 (optional) 5.6 : Very short...hand crack with good face holds. Top out and move to the left around the boulder to set up a gear belay.

Unrope and walk about 20 feet or so to the Hoffwidth.

P2 5.10- : Climb the thin face using the chimney/offwidth occasionally...moving out of the dihedral, pass a tiny ancient hangerless bolt and follow the hand/finger crack to the left. Use caution with the thin flake about 1/2 way up the route, sketch!

Either finish up here and belay/rap off the small tree branch and some bail gear, or continue up the face to the right and to the top to truly earn the grade! (scary down climb)

Note: Pitch one can be skipped with a slippery walk up the south side along the base. You can also walk off here after the first pitch or after rapping the second.

Location

The Willowwacks Wall is one of the more isolated out of the quartzite formations, situated a couple hundred meters north past the Lunchboxes, and a couple hundred meters southwest of the Lunch Bucket Ledge turnoff. It can be seen from the parking lot and can be seen by looking directly north from the top of The Big Bobino. Although not all that lengthy, the approach is pretty unpleasant no matter what, so the best way is to just walk directly from the parking lot and try to find the path of least foliage. The start of the first pitch is to the right of the base of the formation.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot is sufficient, but two #4's and a single #5 would be perfect. May need long webbing and some bail gear to get down.

Photos

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