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Routes in Lower Lunchbox Area

Big Bobino, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bobino Direct, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Boulder- South Face TR V2 5+
Coyote Ugly TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dangleberry Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Darrell Sandwich V3 6A
Hassle Hoffwidth, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holus-Bolus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicifer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ledger's Bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lunch Lady Land T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Middle Way, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Player's Piano V4 6B
SARS And Stripes Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairway T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Timber Tantrum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Try-Angles Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Willowwacks Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 612 total, 8/month
Shared By: Benjamin F on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

An elaborate boulder problem situated above a big bulky crack. For full value, keep way to the left and steer clear of Holus Bolus.

Follow the big bulky crack(low 5th) until it tapers into a seemingly impenetrable seam. From the narrow ledge, the crux is straight up the face following the seam and thin face holds. Very crimpy and balancey at first, and ends on slopers.

Pretty sketchy to lead, as the last good bit of pro is just below your feet before a 15ft run out crux. Everyone who I've seen work this route opted for the top rope.

Location

The thin marble face between Stairway and Holus Bolus.
From the Middle Fork trail, walk along the base for about 30-40 meters. Locate a sizable ledge with a small cavity and overhang, located about 10 feet above a tree. The route begins to the left of this tree.

Protection

Top rope: Some slings for the knob at the top (small splitter cams/nuts good for backing up behind the knob), and some long (20+ ft) webbing to backup on the trees

Lead: Standard rack, #2 Camalot down to micro stoppers. doubles of #3, #4 metolius helpful. Sew it up, and make sure you have that crux sequence dialed!

Photos

Nathan W.
Sequoia NP, CA
 
Nathan W.   Sequoia NP, CA
 
Seemingly impenetrable? is that a challenge? Apr 10, 2015