Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 399 total · 5/month
Shared By: Benjamin F on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Awkward top rope or heady lead. Seemingly harder at a glance, but once the beta is uncovered and the mental crux is overcome it's pretty fun. Climb very directly to the overhang crimping up the initial thin face.
A small nut protects the first overhang, and some very very long runners protects the second large overhang and crux. Reach high for a horizontal crack. Fall potential is all over the place, but after placing a piece and pulling the lip you can breathe a bit easier. Finish on the Lunch Lady crack and belay on branches, or finish up on the Stairway by traversing to the right (low 5th) to a gear belay.

Location

Located between Lunch Lady Land and Stairway/Juicifer. Find the massive overhanging bulge above a large ledge in the dead center of the Lower Lunchbox wall, its the largest feature on the wall and pretty hard to miss. Align yourself under the overhang and climb a direct line to the top. Staying a little to the right and avoiding the better holds on the initial face is a fun/thin little challenge.

Protection

Lead: Set of cams to 3.5", set of nuts (down to micros). The crux is hard to protect, but a large (#4 or #5) Camalot and very long runners can be helpful. Be careful with slinging boulders on the ledge. Wear helmets!

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the trees, the positioning makes it a bit awkward to top rope. Back up with gear.

Photos

Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Best climb at this crag. thin slab climbing to a moderate roof to an excellent roof, stay left over the bulge for best movement and finish on 15 ft. of 5.9 offwidth climbing. Cool! Jan 20, 2015