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Routes in Lower Lunchbox Area

Big Bobino, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bobino Direct, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Boulder- South Face TR V2 5+
Coyote Ugly TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dangleberry Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Darrell Sandwich V3 6A
Hassle Hoffwidth, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holus-Bolus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juicifer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Ledger's Bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lunch Lady Land T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Middle Way, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Player's Piano V4 6B
SARS And Stripes Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairway T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Timber Tantrum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Try-Angles Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Willowwacks Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 379 total, 6/month
Shared By: Benjamin F on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Awkward top rope or heady lead. Seemingly harder at a glance, but once the beta is uncovered and the mental crux is overcome it's pretty fun. Climb very directly to the overhang crimping up the initial thin face.
A small nut protects the first overhang, and some very very long runners protects the second large overhang and crux. Reach high for a horizontal crack. Fall potential is all over the place, but after placing a piece and pulling the lip you can breathe a bit easier. Finish on the Lunch Lady crack and belay on branches, or finish up on the Stairway by traversing to the right (low 5th) to a gear belay.

Location

Located between Lunch Lady Land and Stairway/Juicifer. Find the massive overhanging bulge above a large ledge in the dead center of the Lower Lunchbox wall, its the largest feature on the wall and pretty hard to miss. Align yourself under the overhang and climb a direct line to the top. Staying a little to the right and avoiding the better holds on the initial face is a fun/thin little challenge.

Protection

Lead: Set of cams to 3.5", set of nuts (down to micros). The crux is hard to protect, but a large (#4 or #5) Camalot and very long runners can be helpful. Be careful with slinging boulders on the ledge. Wear helmets!

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the trees, the positioning makes it a bit awkward to top rope. Back up with gear.

Photos

Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Best climb at this crag. thin slab climbing to a moderate roof to an excellent roof, stay left over the bulge for best movement and finish on 15 ft. of 5.9 offwidth climbing. Cool! Jan 20, 2015