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Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon
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Feeding the Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13 |
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King Arthur's Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moby Dick's Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2+ R |
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Moby Dicks Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13 |
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Queen's View- Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Stool, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.26239, -109.36477 |
| FA: | Matt Pickren and Ben Kiessel |
| Page Views: | 1,331 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Jul 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The route starts on to the NE side of the Stool on the SE side of the fin feature.
P1-Climb up the huecos placing gear in the holes. Clip a bolt and mantel on to a ledge. Walk the ledge left up a ramp around the tower to a good gear belay on a ledge. The belay takes .75 and 1 size. 150' 5.8.
P2-Climb 5.6 up to the notch between King Arthur's Seat and the Stool. Climb the bolt ladder up to the summit and a two bolt belay. 5.8 C1+ 60'.
Descent- Double rope rappel down the SE face.
Note- The 2nd and 4th bolts wiggle in there holes. The rock is soft so if anyone is going to replace them bring something big.
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