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Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon

Feeding the Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13
King Arthur's Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's View- Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13
Stool, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Type: Trad, Aid, 190 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Pickren and Ben Kiessel
Page Views: 493 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jul 4, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route starts on to the NE side of the Stool on the SE side of the fin feature.

P1-Climb up the huecos placing gear in the holes. Clip a bolt and mantel on to a ledge. Walk the ledge left up a ramp around the tower to a good gear belay on a ledge. The belay takes .75 and 1 size. 150' 5.8.

P2-Climb 5.6 up to the notch between King Arthur's Seat and the Stool. Climb the bolt ladder up to the summit and a two bolt belay. 5.8 C1+ 60'.

Descent- Double rope rappel down the SE face.

Note- The 2nd and 4th bolts wiggle in there holes. The rock is soft so if anyone is going to replace them bring something big.

Location

This tower is located NE of King Arthur's Seat.

Protection

Single set .3 to 3 Camalot doubles in the hand sizes. Aid stuff(2 to 3 bolts on the bolt ladder don't have hangers). Two 60m ropes.

Photos

This tower was fun to put up, especially in an area where most towers have ben climbed.

However, with over a collective 300 towers between us, Ben and I agreed it was still the worst rock we have ever been on. Mar's Hotel was finally beat! Jul 18, 2012
Ben Kiessel  
 
There is potential for an alternate first pitch to the notch between King Arthur's Seat and The Stool. It would climb cracks in on the South side of the tower. I would guess it would go at 5.9 or 5.10. Jul 4, 2012