Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Gene Vallee 6/13/2000
Page Views: 2,470 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up past two hangerless bolts to an easy chimney. Belay on above the chimney. 110' 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb past 2 more hangerless bolts (crux), pass a hueco that takes a #3 camalot, and belay on a nice ledge off of cams. 70' 5.9-.

Walk up the ridge to the "natural boullard" anchor.

Pitch 3: Continue to the summit, passing a pin drilled pin, and some sandy rock. Summit anchor consisted of a stopper and a slung horn. 50'(from the bollard) 5.7.

We linked pitches 1 and 2 with little drag.

Descent: Do one long rappel down the east face off the natural bollard.

Location

Scramble up to the SW corner of the ridge. Traverse east on a slab for 15-20 feet to the first bolt.

Protection

Single set of cams. (all we placed were a #2 and #3 camalot), runners, tat, Stoppers or rivet hangers for the bolts, two sixty meter ropes.

Photos