Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Gene Vallee 6/13/2000
Page Views: 2,726 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 21, 2012 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up past three bolts to an easy chimney. Belay on above the chimney. 110' 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb past 2 more bolts (crux), pass a hueco that takes a #3 camalot, and belay on a nice ledge. There is one built and a stuck red cam connected by some slings 70' 5.9-.

Walk up the ridge past the rappel anchor, which consists of a bolt and wired bolt with multiple slings and one ring. "Natural boullard" anchor is shaved down.

Pitch 3: Continue to the summit, passing a pin drilled pin, and some sandy rock. Summit anchor consisted of a stopper and a slung horn. 50'(from the bollard) 5.7.

We linked pitches 1 and 2 with little drag.

Descent: Do one long rappel down the east face off the natural bollard.

Location

Scramble up to the SW corner of the ridge. Traverse east on a slab for 15-20 feet to the first bolt.

Protection

Single set of cams is more than enough. All we placed were a #2 and #3 camalot), two sixty meter ropes.

Photos