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Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon

Feeding the Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13
King Arthur's Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's View- Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13
Stool, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Gene Vallee 6/13/2000
Page Views: 1,780 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up past two hangerless bolts to an easy chimney. Belay on above the chimney. 110' 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb past 2 more hangerless bolts (crux), pass a hueco that takes a #3 camalot, and belay on a nice ledge off of cams. 70' 5.9-.

Walk up the ridge to the "natural boullard" anchor.

Pitch 3: Continue to the summit, passing a pin drilled pin, and some sandy rock. Summit anchor consisted of a stopper and a slung horn. 50'(from the bollard) 5.7.

We linked pitches 1 and 2 with little drag.

Descent: Do one long rappel down the east face off the natural bollard.

Location

Scramble up to the SW corner of the ridge. Traverse east on a slab for 15-20 feet to the first bolt.

Protection

Single set of cams. (all we placed were a #2 and #3 camalot), runners, tat, Stoppers or rivet hangers for the bolts, two sixty meter ropes.
Climbed this last week: an overall enjoyable experience, but the rock really is soft (maybe I'm just too used to Yosemite Granite). I'm not sure where the 5.9 is supposed to be. The move right off the first anchor seemed pretty straightforward, just step up the pockets.

The bolts were almost all in good shape. One of the rap bolts is missing a hanger but seems ok; I replaced the nut being used as a bolt hanger and rapped off it without any issue.

One wrinkle: a hold broke directly below the final piton when I was descending. I thought this section was pretty sketchy -- you are essentially looking at a ground fall if you slip and the rock is super soft. A bolt 5 feet below the piton would make this enormously safer. (The moves are very easy, but the rock quality is especially poor here.) Apr 2, 2017
Joshua Griffin
Glenwood Springs, CO
Joshua Griffin   Glenwood Springs, CO
We rapped down with a single 70 meter rope off the top of the second pitch on the north side. If your rope is trimmed, it definitely won't reach. Mar 13, 2017
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Pitch 1. First bolt was good. I added a hanger to the second bolt. There is also now a third bolt on this pitch, which nicely protects the follower on the last sandy mantle before gaining the ledge that leads to the chimney. Belay from good cams at the first ledge above the chimney.

Pitch 2. First hangerless pro bolt was sticking out about 1.5 inches and was very loose. I removed this bolt and placed a new one a couple feet to the right and a little bit higher. I added a hanger to the second bolt on this pitch. The critical "edge" for the crux move here is rapidly disintegrating, so we both opted to A0 off the second bolt. There is also now another bolt at the top of this pitch, at the "nice ledge" in Ben's description.

We third-classed from the top of P2 up to the natural bollard. There are now two bolts at the natural bollard rappel site.

Pitch 3 is more like 150' from the bollard to the summit, not 50'. Unprotected 5.1 ramp to flat ledge to a final 5.7 sugary step with drilled piton. We felt like being on a rope for the sandy 5.1 slab right above the bollard; others may not. Summit anchor is a slung block and two fixed nuts.

I'd suggest carrying some webbing/cord for the summit anchor and a wrench for tightening the bolts. Very soft rock, but a pretty fun climb/outing nonetheless. Feb 25, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Sorry about the hangers ... We did leave them complete on the FA.. May 24, 2015
Lando
western Colorado
  5.8
Lando   western Colorado
  5.8
The natural bollard feature is eroding quickly; it's reminiscent of a sand castle. The wire/bolt is pretty bomber, but to transfer load onto the rappel strands involves swinging out over the edge, putting a good deal of lateral, scrubbing forces on the slung sand pile. This route would benefit from a pair of rappel bolts at the bollard site. The last bolt on P2 would also make a viable place for a rap ring. May 19, 2015
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.7 R
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.7 R
great little adventure, great easy route. we did not find any move harder than 5.7. not much gear needed. May 9, 2012

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