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Routes in Joe Wilson Canyon

Feeding the Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 PG13
King Arthur's Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's View- Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13
Stool, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
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Type: Trad, Aid, 210 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross and Gene Vallee, June 13, 2000
Page Views: 1,302 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matt Pickren on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Feeding the Rat is located on the southwest prow of the tower. It is on the edge you seen from the parking lot.

Pitch 0- Scramble up to a large ledge on the shoulder of the tower.

Pitch 1- Climb a pillar-like (very soft) formation 20 feet to an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse out crack left to an uncomfortable natural belay below small crack. 5.7 C1+ 40 feet

Pitch 2- Aid up tiny blue and black alien crack straight off belay. Follow this crack for 30 feet to pins and bolts. Follow bolts and studs with occasional placement to bolted belay on a decent ledge. C2 100 feet

Pitch 3- Aid up more bolts and free climb up staircases to the summit. Belay of a bush. 5.5 C1 60 feet

Descent- Pray, if you think it'll help. Rappel from small bush off the east side of the tower. Seriously, this bush is scary. We backed up the one half others had used to the other small half. A single bolt would inspire much more confidence. You will need double 60s as these just get you to the ground. Also, pulling the ropes was really hard so get the note well over the edge.

Location

Continue on the road, which turns to cattle trails, from the parking lot. Feeding the Rat is on the edge of the tower facing the parking lot.

Protection

Triples in black and blue aliens. Doubles from yellow alien to #2 camalot. 1 Set stoppers. At least 4 butterfly hangers were nice to have. Additional 6+ free biners or draws for lots of pins/bolts.
Ben K and I did this route this weekend - we added a 1/2" x 3" strike bolt to the rap anchor, so future parties can have a bit more peace of mind! Fun route. Jan 17, 2012

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