Magnetic North
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Sport, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.43182, -110.78162 |
| FA: | TL KB 2010 |
| Page Views: | 3,503 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Benedon on Jun 10, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This route is; one short pitch, two long pitches and one more short pitch. You can do the start of the .9 to avoid the first belay.
P1 | 5.6 | 60' : Clip high first bolt shared with Keep on Rock'n. Continue up and left, then layback or chimney up into a notch to a 2 bolt belay
P2 | 5.8+ | ~100' : Hop up onto boulder, clip and step across, work up to big holds 8+, then cruise up easier ground. Belay at 2 bolts, or step left and belay on giant ledge, frequently in the shade! Single bolt, plus many options to sling/thread boulders, or build a gear belay (options in the 0.4-#2 range).
P3 | 5.8 | ~185' : Join Mystery Route Center for a move, then heads up the face right of the old trad line for a full pitch, belay at 2 bolts on a comfortable ledge.
P4 | 5.6 | 50' : Climb a short face to the summit which has belay bolts on the south side, and rap bolts on the north side, just oover the edge.
Descent: Scramble down the west side back to your packs. Slightly faster but more technical to stay on the dome side of the water. Crossing over the wash up high and taking the far side is less exposed.
Location
Right of the Better Life, the 2nd pitch offwidth on Better life is an easy to identify landmark. Magnetic North starts framed between 2 straight pine trees with a high first bolt ~20' up. There is a line of bolts heading up and right from there (Keep on Rock'n 5.9) but Magnetic North cuts left along easy, runout terrain.



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