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Routes in Wilderness of Rocks Domes

Better Life, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magnetic North S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex and Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: TL KB 2010
Page Views: 1,398 total · 19/month
Shared By: brian benedon on Jun 10, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is; one short pitch, two long pitches and one more short pitch. You can do the start of the .9 to avoid the first belay.

the first bolt is shared with the 1 p 5.9, right of this one. after the first bolt, continue up and left, then chimney up into a notch, belay at 2 bolts. p2 hop up onto boulder, clip and step across, work up to big holds 8+, then cruz up easier ground, belay at 2 bolts, or step left and belay on rock bench with a tie though sling or med cam.( from here you can top rope the Better Life, the 5.10 wide crack )
P3 joins Mystery Route Center for a move, then heads up the face right of the old trad line for a full pitch, belay at 2 bolts. P4 climbs a short face to the summit which has belay bolts on the south side, and rap bolts on the north side, over the edge. I do not know who put these rap bolts in.

Scramble down the west side back to your packs

Location

right of Mystery Route Center, Wilderness of Rocks Dome

Protection

all bolts

Photos

James L  
We got our descriptions mixed up and actually did P1 of "The Better Life", on the slab to the left. At the top of that, we stepped right onto the large boulder and began P2 of this route (belay was possible from the anchors in the bush, rope drag was not bad). P2 was really fun, and the chickenheads were a joy after the slab. We ran low on time though, so rapped off from the top of P2, to anchors at P1, then second rap to bottom. 60m rope. There are chains to rap from at the tops of 1 and 2; cannot say about P3. Feb 16, 2018

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