Red Route
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 32.43182, -110.78162 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,206 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Costas Sofianos on Oct 14, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Pitch 1 (5.7): climb corner up to the roof, then traverse left to the base of an off-width. ~80'
Pitch 2 (5.6): Get above the off-width by stepping left, then either step back to the right and up along a wide crack with beautiful lizard skin on its right, or climb left onto a face with easy chicken heads. ~100'
Pitch 3 (5.7+): continue straight up the easy slab to the large rock in the corner. Climb on top of the rock and clip a beautiful new bolt next to a very old, rusty, spinning bolt. The next move is the crux and involves a fist jam followed by very awkwardly shoving your body in a crack. A #4 would be great for protecting this move. Belay on the flat ground above this awkward sequence. 100-150'
Pitch 4 (5.7): short, but really fun jungle-gym moves up to the tippy top!. ~60'
Decent: There are bolts and rap rings off the north side of the highest boulder on the route. After the short rap, turn left (west) and follow the path of least resistance down the class 3 slab marked by the occasional cairn. Eventually, you reach the ground very near the start of the climb.
Pro: one bolt protects the crux, and everything else is gear, including anchors.
Suggest 1x 0-#4, light set of wires, optional 2x 0.2-#2 depending on comfort at the grade.



3 Comments