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Routes in Wilderness of Rocks Domes

Better Life, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Magnetic North S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sex and Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Shared By: Costas on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Along the Wilderness of Rocks trail there are several large domes that are right off the trail.

Getting There

Park at Marshall's Gulch and hike the trail to the intersection on top of the ridge. From there hike down Wilderness of rocks trail for a mile or so. You will see a dome with two summits to the north.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wilderness of Rocks Domes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetic North
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sex and Candy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Red Route 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Magnetic North 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Sex and Candy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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Photos

climbers on Mystery Route Center ( Red Route I Think) and on the first pitch of The Better Life; April 16.
there was plenty of water for the dogs and perfect temps.





Apr 20, 2017
Tis the season to climb in the wilderness.

This area won't challenge the local hard men, however average climbers will have plenty to do.

The dome has an equal amount of trad and sport climbing. Many pitches can be linked together and many can be top roped if you do some leading or scrambling. May 14, 2016
I don't believe KR did these routes for two reasons; 3/8 bolts and KR reported his routes, and these routes deserve to be reported.

The conditions are perfect early summer.

The other rock has routes by Tony Lusk and Steve Johnson. SM and I did the short wide hand crack. rap Steve's route on the other side. Jun 4, 2015
Dies anybody know about the rock about 300 yards south of this dome? We accidentally climbed on it before realizing it wasn't WOR Domes, but wanted to give props to the developer(s). May 22, 2013
FAs were probably done by Karl Rickson and company.
I know he spent a fair amount time in the area.
Chances are good that anything you do without a drill that is 5.10 or under has seen a prior ascent.
The nice thing though, who cares, for you it's the same as an FA and for that, Karl would be very happy. Aug 22, 2012
Wilderness of Rocks Dome, AKA, Twin Peaks, Mystery, North Dome is located below the antenna at the top of the road past Ski Valley.
You can see the back of it from just below the road.

Approach it from Marshal Gulch. It is about 20 min past Primus Wall (aka trailside craig)
mountainproject.com/v/primu…
When the trail starts to head down to the south, and you are about even with the low angle slab on the hill to your right, look for a large pine tree and a route to the right and down, across the drain, then up to the dome.

The FA's on the original lines remain a mystery. My guess is that they were put up in the late 70's. (3/8 bolts w/ Leepers) The area got a couple of new routes in 2010.


The routes lack sustain which may eliminate the stars in some opinions, however the atmosphere warrants stars. there is good water for the dogs.

There are 3 distinct natural lines, but there are many variations;

Mystery Route Center, has a leeper on the first pitch, but it can be backed-up with a cam.
...(a new bolt has been placed next to the old bolt.) There are 2 ways to climb this, one slabs out left, the other is straight up. If you go straight up, it can be done all natural.

Mystery Route Left has a bolt for the last move that can be backed up with a 3 cam, kind of. I think Costas combined the two lines. These routes can be done several different ways.

Mystery right; takes a small nut off the deck and some larger cams the rest of the way. bring a tool to clean the dirt out of the nut placement. It is can be done in 2 really long pitches if you move the belay and or climb up a bit.

Tony put up 2 sport lines right of the center weakness. Tony's routes have bolted anchors however most are not rap anchors. You can however rap with a single rope from the second pitch to a rap anchor about 30' up, left of the route.

Each of the two peaks have bolted rap anchors, 1 rope rap off the backside.

It is easiest to scramble down the west side, stay on the rock all the way to the bottom before crossing the water, or scramble down the east side close to the rock. there is a rap from some bushes if you wish.

Bees and ants have been seen, however they have not been a problem. Jun 10, 2012

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