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Routes in East Crags

Panthalassa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proto-Pacific S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tethys S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Salzer and Erik Johnson
Page Views: 3,147 total, 47/month
Shared By: Erik J. on May 29, 2012
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

FA 5/20/2012. Four main pitches, one belay move and another really short pitch to get to the tippy top. 5.7, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.5 (15'). Big pockets. The crux is boulder problem length.
The first pitch is an approach pitch. The belay move pitch (The Cockles Traverse) has even worse rock than the first or the actual summit. The rest of the climb is solid. The summit is very cool, but the last 5-10' of the wall the rock quality seriously deteriorates. There are good bolts on the summit ridge.
See the photo and topo for more info.

Location

To get to the Evolution Fin (we just made that up, if there is already a name for it great: what is it?) take the climbers track left a hundred yards before the Main Area, just before the small rock downclimb in the trail. Keep going sidehill and uphill until the path basically deadends at the base of the climb. There is a large block leaning against the wall just to the left of where the climb starts. See photo and topo.

Protection

All bolts and bolted anchors with rappel chains. Pitches 2,3,4 have 11 bolts each and the anchor.
If you top out, don't try to rappel past the anchor 15' down from the summit anchor (horrendous rope drag over the summit choss), instead do a 15' rap, an 85', an 80', a 30', a 90' and a 90'. A 60m rope works great, just be careful. Again, see topo.
Timmy JaBrone  
5.11
an old Hardman dragged me up this one day with a case of PBRs, got sloshed at the top and forgot where the crux was so we rapped back down and did it again. Forgot my rack on the top anyways. Watch out for rats in the pockets and bring shovel to dig for the treasure at the summit Nov 1, 2017
Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Evan Schock   Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Got up for the 2nd annual 4/20 send yesterday. A bit cleaner than last year, all bolts and anchors in great shape. Tread lightly in the spring as the nature of this rock can be frail after seasonal changes. No rockfall besides pebbles yesterday! great adventure again. kinda feel that the 11 crux is V4, but so fun Apr 21, 2017
Evan Schock
Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Evan Schock   Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Got er done on 4/20/16 on a bluebird day. Wonderful bolt line with excellent protection every step of the way. Major kudos to whoever put in that contour traverse to the base of pantha and establishing this wonderful fin.

A little bit of a pebble rain pulling ropes and some moves but other than that i found everything to be just fine (BRING helmet yo!). The last 5.10 pitch to the top is full 3 stars, so good. Amazing summit and clean raps the whole way. very interesting and fun crux at the 5.11 pitch! Apr 21, 2016
The approach can definitely be biked to shorten the time - Spent the rappel with brushes cleaning some of the dirt filled pockets that are in route. There is a lot of fun to be had on the 2nd and 4th pitch - Sweet move to the right side of the flake on the last few bolts. Definitely bring a helmet and have a terrific time
Apr 11, 2016
Griffin Dittmar
  5.11b/c PG13
Griffin Dittmar  
  5.11b/c PG13
The route is really fun, however its clearly pretty new and un-climbing. SUPER chossy around the 10 and on the traverse. The last 15ft which is like 5.7 are kinda sketchy with one draw and then 10 ft to the top around this weird lip. Be super careful and thought out with raps as rope snags are easy to achieve. I can't wait to climb the route agin in a few years when it gets cleaned up.

Have fun and be safe!! Oct 6, 2015
Dane Christensen   Bozone
3rd/4th/nth for the helmet!
A bit chossy here and there, but a fun thin crux and a good adventure altogether. Jul 11, 2013
Alex W  
and bring a helmet! Apr 27, 2013
Alex W  
Rarely post on mountain project.. However climbed "Panthalassa" today on 4/27/13. Found enjoyable climbing and all good bolts (noticed ~3 that were replaced recently). The stone is not perfect.. but the climbing is good! Future parties may want to bring a brush and do their part to clean up a little dirt and loose rock here and there. The trail is great and easy to follow. I did leave some cord and rap rings on the 2nd pitch's anchor to not interfere with the fixed line (that was tied into the rappel rings). All things that are good! Apr 27, 2013
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.11b PG13
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.11b PG13
Do you enjoy pulling on pockets filled with dirt? Do you enjoy gingerly standing on loose flakes? Do you enjoy watching grapefruit sized knobs come flying off when you pull your rappel ropes? Do you enjoy walking an hour and climbing 4 pitches of choss for 2 good moves? If so, panthalassa may be for you!

Common side effects include: BringAHelmet Syndrome, wishing your belayer was more sheltered, wishing the rock was as solid as the canadian rockies or tetons, and wishing that you had a leaf blower & crowbar along to actually clean the route.
........................
If there wasn't so much loose rock and it wasn't so dirty, this would actually be a halfway decent route; some of the pockets were fun and the crux sequence was intriguing. Unfortunately, it is currently 4 pitches of bolted friable limestone with about ten feet of good climbing (and even there, in the crux sequence, the pockets are dirty).

PG 13 for the amount of loose rock--I have never been so terrified as when I watched another party roll up as we neared the top. Almost impossible to avoid sending a constant stream of pebbles down, punctuated with the periodic baseballs.

TL;DR: Unless there's a herculean cleaning effort, don't waste your time. Sep 9, 2012
T Howes
Sisters, OR
T Howes   Sisters, OR
Great route with a nice trail. Rock quality is good and will get better with traffic. I definitely recommend biking the approach trail. Aug 27, 2012
Ty Gittins
bozeman
Ty Gittins   bozeman
the approach can be biked....this route looks fantastic, cant wait to get on it Jul 4, 2012
Super Fun. A little dirty in spots but hopefully it will clean up as it gets more attention. I would recommend using 3-4 slings on pitch 3 for any future parties, that helped me a lot with rope drag. Jun 23, 2012
Jay Hack
Birmingham, MI
Jay Hack   Birmingham, MI
Looks like a great route EJ! Way to get after it! May 30, 2012