Avg: 2.6 from 18 votes
|Type:||Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Scott Salzer and Erik Johnson|
|Page Views:||3,160 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Erik J. on May 29, 2012|
DescriptionFA 5/20/2012. Four main pitches, one belay move and another really short pitch to get to the tippy top. 5.7, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.5 (15'). Big pockets. The crux is boulder problem length.
The first pitch is an approach pitch. The belay move pitch (The Cockles Traverse) has even worse rock than the first or the actual summit. The rest of the climb is solid. The summit is very cool, but the last 5-10' of the wall the rock quality seriously deteriorates. There are good bolts on the summit ridge.
See the photo and topo for more info.
LocationTo get to the Evolution Fin (we just made that up, if there is already a name for it great: what is it?) take the climbers track left a hundred yards before the Main Area, just before the small rock downclimb in the trail. Keep going sidehill and uphill until the path basically deadends at the base of the climb. There is a large block leaning against the wall just to the left of where the climb starts. See photo and topo.
ProtectionAll bolts and bolted anchors with rappel chains. Pitches 2,3,4 have 11 bolts each and the anchor.
If you top out, don't try to rappel past the anchor 15' down from the summit anchor (horrendous rope drag over the summit choss), instead do a 15' rap, an 85', an 80', a 30', a 90' and a 90'. A 60m rope works great, just be careful. Again, see topo.