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Routes in The Land Beyond

Another Shorty in the Forty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brat Holes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Danforth Anchor, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deadman Five S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dog Crap Broken Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fatty McFlipflops S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hanging Judge S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kindergarten Pimp, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Older...Better...Stronger...Faster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pantry Moth Invasion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peaceful, But for Gunfire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sendtember S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sofia Says S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something for Sofia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tembertantrum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toys for Tots S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tufantastic S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yo Momma S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Yo Sista S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Logan Wilcoxson
Page Views: 1,011 total, 15/month
Shared By: LoganW on May 11, 2012 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Start out with a few thin balance moves on the black slab. Layback the hanging block to reach the roof. Reach over the roof for a couple of crimps and then up and over.

Location

Last route on the right. Just past "Another Short in the Forty"

Protection

4 bolts and anchors

Photos

hcollins
  5.10c
hcollins  
  5.10c
Great route & very fun climbing! I think it might be harder if you're shorter; I'm 5"3', and I definitely thought the moves to get over the roof on this route were harder than any moves on Dog Crap Broken Fingers (10c) or Brat Holes (10d), which are both nearby. Nov 7, 2016
mhendren
  5.10a/b
mhendren  
  5.10a/b
First time I looked at this route I questioned it, but after Climbing it I think it is one of my new favorites. Thin balance moves to a small but fun heel hook roof. Would recommend if going to try. Jan 24, 2013