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Routes in Two Pitch Wall

Cambodian Holiday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destination Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ditch Two Pitch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Naught Spy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intimidator, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitches And Scream T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Predestination T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Service T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sketch Mex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Trash Compactor T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Wes Love, Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 518 total, 8/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on May 6, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description


The first pitch, Two Pitch(5.4), is a fun introduction to traditional climbing. Build your natural anchor in the small cave after climbing through the fun crack and ledge system and prepare to climb the meat of this route.

Traverse cliff right on the ledge past Eat A Peach(5.7) until you are at the first vertical crack. Stem, layback, high step and smear through this classic funky crux. Ledge hop until you reach the top and locate the diagonal crack to build a natural anchor in.

Location


Standing in front of Two Pitch Wall look up and locate the only diagonal crack (Eat A Peach) and look cliff right. The first crack is Predestination (5.8).

Protection


Trad Rack - eats up nuts, bring micor - medium sized cams

Photos

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
The permit is just a form to fill out before you climb. Since you can't spend the night up there anymore, it helps the park staff make sure no one is injured when they are looking at cars left at the end of the day. Jul 26, 2017
This was my first on-sight lead. We got tired of top-roping Gastonia Crack, and falling off of The Wall. We (My brother, Timothy and I) had a rack of Titons, zero thru ten- a biner for each one, several slings with biners, and a gold line rope. We didn't have climbing shoes. We had read Basic Rockcraft by Royal Robbins, and the sequel, so we deemed ourselves to be qualified. I was picked to lead it. I don't remember, but my brother assured me later I was terrified. I believe him. I had no idea I could lead 5.8. WOW! This was around '79 or '80. Crowders was different then. Many times somebody going up to work on the radio towers would give us a ride. There wasn't much parking at the gate. We used to run into Mike Smith before his beard was all grey. And, we used to sleep up there. Times have changed. I guess you need some kind of permit to climb there. Jul 25, 2017
Steep and pumpy! Could not figure out how to protect thru the crux. Not enough feet to get balanced and place. Feb 16, 2017