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Routes in Two Pitch Wall

Cambodian Holiday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destination Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ditch Two Pitch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Naught Spy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Eat a Peach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intimidator, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitches And Scream T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Predestination T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Service T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sketch Mex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Trash Compactor T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Pell, Danny Caldwell
Page Views: 1,435 total, 21/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on May 27, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The only bolt line on Two Pitch Wall and as the name suggests, it got bolted secretly.

What a route! Technical face climbing sprinkled with bouts of overhung jug hauls await the bold leader of this exposed beautiful climb! Two ways to start this one...

1)Secret Service(5.10+)- Climb higher into the gully in front of Two Pitch. Follow the line of most protection under Double Naught Spy(5.9R) bypassing the first two bolts of Secretly Serviced Again until reaching the first bolt (third bolt) of the original Secret Service. Continue to the fourth bolt around the arete. The fifth and final bolt is located cliff right after pulling some great moves at the roof.

2)Secretly Serviced Again- Start on the big ledge looking up at Two Pitch Wall. Climb up the gully and find a small crack system running up a small dihedral and onto the face of Two Pitch Wall. Climb to the first bolt on the white rock. Two variations exist here.

2a)(5.11-)- At the first bolt climb cliff left, onto the arete, utilizing the mono heading towards the second bolt on the arete.

2b)(5.10+)- At the first bolt traverse cliff right towards easier terrain. Climb up only to traverse cliff left on small holds back towards the second bolt on the arete.

Pull the bulge, mantling towards the third bolt and then merging onto the original Secret Service(5.10+).

This route will take some smaller cams near the top after the fifth bolt above the roof. Technical, pumpy, exposed climbing definitely make this a CLASSIC (in my opinion). Come get some!

Location

Middle of Two Pitch Wall. In between the Pinky Pillar and Middle Finger Wall. The only bolted line on Two Pitch.

Protection

Light Trad rack, five bolts and a bolted anchor with rings.

Photos

I might have got the second ascent of this line. It was my first on-sight 5.10. Mark belayed me, talked me up it, egged me on, and congratulated me. I remember Dan Flowers was there in the gulley. This route has lots of exposure, so it's good for your head. I still remember pulling around the corner to the left under the roof. I reached over and grabbed a hold. It moved. Lots! That used to be common at Crowders. I held onto in just for reassurance and kept going. After I pulled the roof, I saw the bolt just above the bomber crack. I wondered why he had put it there, then happily, gratefully and quickly clipped it. Mark belayed me on what I think were the best two leads of my life... this, and Toads R Us. The Bible says to give credit where credit is due, so there it is. This is a great route. If you can handle 5.10, do it. 4 stars, which is a lot for a 1 pitch. Mark, for a short while, was known (Affectionately) as the local "Mad Bolter". Around this time, Shane and I were over around Burned Crack and we heard the distinctive sound of somebody drilling a hole with a hammer, echoing all around for all to hear. We turned to each other and said "I'll bet that's Mark". The siren came on from the mill down below. The speed and intensity of the hammering increased. We knew he was hoping the siren would cover up his hammering, but it was louder than the siren. A few days later, over beers, we asked him about it. He told us how nervous he was, then relieved when he heard the siren. But he put up some great routes there! Jul 25, 2017