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Routes in Cathedral Peak

Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dream Weaver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Long Gone Bong T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Urchin V2- 5+
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southeast Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: tyler gross
Page Views: 727 total, 11/month
Shared By: r. tyler gross on Apr 19, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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sit start in the bottom of the hollowed out 5 ft. roof overhang. Start on small undercling crimp right hand and left hand on another undercling further down and left of your feet.
Start heading right towards a diagonal crack with a multitude of holds, pockets, slopers and continue right up the large flake.


If facing the giant cave at the bottom of cathedral peak, go in cave and walk up and left. You will see the giant flake overhang. The start is to the left and below in the hollowed out overhang.




I hiked up there from the frontside sometime last year, but was confronted by a large swarm of bees as the mouth of the cave. Seems as if they're gone and I can finally see what's in there!

Oh and awesome photos. Good stuff on your site, and cool to see quality pics of Pine Mtn, etc. May 31, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Never before has a V2 boulder problem garnered this much hooplah. May 2, 2012
Not to drift from the current discussion (whatever it is), but I just shot beer out of my nose reading this:

"there are LOTS of untouched GOOD lines (even multipitch!) left to do."

I hate wasting beer. Shore, you owe me one. May 2, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I typically divide climbing places in to two categories:

1) Places where quality climbing can occur
2) Places where Dale (my Siberian Husky) can run and frolic

The Cathedral Peak area mostly falls in to the latter category, in my opinion. Potters Point is a mix of 1 and 2. The Yard', the Mouth, and the Playground also straddle the categories.

Some places, like Stoney Point—historical noteworthiness notwithstanding—don't fit either category. For such locales there is a third category:

3) Places where tweakers, choss, rednecks, and syringes and/or broken glass abound

Further complicating things, Category 3 climbing areas can also vaunt the benefits of category 1 and 2. The only place in Central California where the highly rare "Triple-Threat-Category" occurs is The Owl Tor.

The Tor also has rattlesnakes. Apr 28, 2012
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Way to motivate, Tyler, and thanks for a great description with photos! Perhaps most importantly, thanks for a mature and cool-headed response to the hate.

Richard, it's not like he woke you up and made you carry the pads out there! While I know you've established some nice lines recently (Lebowski area routes, in particular), I would respectfully submit that Santa Barbara has scant "greater pursuits" available. Seriously. If you'd be willing to share the location of the next Yard/Mouth quality bouldering area that you're developing, please let me know! I'll even promise not to poach any lines.

There are widely varying perspectives on what constitutes a good route description, and I for one appreciate that Tyler erred on the side of over-description for his first post. Too many routes/problems on this site have absurdly short descriptions and no photos, providing basically no help whatsoever in finding a problem. My approach is to post enough to get you to the route and properly identify it, and generally not much more (at least this is my goal). Personally, I avoid move-by-move beta and never post a route without a photo. The beauty of mountain project is that server space is paid for by others, so I don't have much problem with verbosity.

Tyler, I hope you're not discouraged from posting routes in the future. Your knowledge and motivation are much appreciated.

Positive vibes to all! Apr 28, 2012
People love to hate eh?
I had never posted anything on here and the "steps" it takes you through says to "be descriptive- that is why mountain project is such a great site" (and I'm paraphrasing).

I just had to visit that cave/didn't know anything about it! Once you do a lot of the known great problems around here you begin to search for more and want to give back to the rock community that has given so much to you. I probably won't go back to boulder at that cave but it was a fun days adventure- not to mention how beautiful it is up there. I wouldn't waste my time hauling gear to do either of those face climbs either; but a fun hike regardless.
I could, however, see one or two really cool potential sport lines in the cave if one were motivated-there are some quality features. there are more photos of the cave on my blog:
Keep up the psyche! Thanks for the feedback. Apr 22, 2012
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
First thing I thought too. I had to read the location twice in fact. But fuckin' a, why not? If you take the front side approach from Mission Cyn you pass a ton of boulders all the way up the hillside. I did a few things up there (never brought a pad though) but never got too busy because it seemed silly because I didn't think anyone would ever go up there to boulder. The rock quality here, as I recall, is a lot better than Potter's Point. Apr 20, 2012
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
Funny, I was going to say the same thing. Probably a tougher grade hauling the pad than the problem. Props to you for the "vision" and arty pics though.

Yes, next time Matilija or that wall that's way up off Arroyo Burro trail behind Barger Peak... Apr 19, 2012