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Routes in Fern North

A Price is Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buck Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cellulite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cosmic Cowboy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Matter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flash Gordon S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Relative T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lipid Lover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Tom S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Over Easy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Satellite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Cadets S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
String Theory S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Weeping Rodeo Clown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wormhole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jerry Barnett
Page Views: 196 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brett Roberts on Feb 9, 2012 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

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11 Opinions

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Description

Description:
Route climbs up the right of 2 bolt lines of a large prow. A sloping crimp gets you to the 1st bolt then easy but pumpy climbing on good jugs over sometimes questionable rock gets you to the crux which is throwing for a massive pocket jug while pulling over the roof. One or two more moves and you are clipping the chains.

Location

Route is on the large prow on the Southern end of the Fern North area. The route climbs the right of 2 bolt lines running up the prow to shared anchors. The obvious prow is about 20 yards left of the Dark Matter wall which is a distinct dark brown color.

Protection

5 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Anchor is shared with Weeping Rodeo Clown.

Photos

Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.10d
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.10d
This classic route offers fun, straightforward climbing until you get to the roof. Things get a little murky up there as 2 routes merge. Move left at the roof and throw to a magnificent jug just below the chains. The crux is definitely pulling the roof and requires a big throw to a jug. Nov 7, 2016
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A few thoughts on this route:

1) The crux is definitely not after the first bolt. Those crimps are aided by huge feet. The crux is getting over to the anchor. This route does have a two bolt anchor (2/14/2015) but we couldn't see it from the ground.

2) It gets confusing high up. There are several bolts right around each other and no obvious line.

3) The rock quality on this pitch is pretty poor. Even avoiding the X-ed out flake, I still managed to kick off a good chunk. The belayer needs a helmet. Feb 15, 2015