Elevation: 1,182 ft
GPS: 35.618, -94.006 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,201 total · 420/month
Shared By: Brett Roberts on Feb 9, 2012 with improvements by cadickerous
Admins: TylerKC

Description

UPDATE (2/15/15)
Jerry has done some amazing work on the Fern website and the Fern guidebook. For completely updated route info including all the new routes, fernclimbing.com

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Getting There

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Oh Sheila
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Pimp Daddy 2000
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Checkpoint Charlie
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Bloody Monday
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Shakie Oakie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Measure of Pleasure
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Penis Captivus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Blood Born Pathogen
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Punk Rock Mohawk
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Trail of Fears
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oh Sheila Bleeder Boulder
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Pimp Daddy 2000 Bleeder Boulder
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Checkpoint Charlie Bleeder Boulder
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Bloody Monday Bleeder Boulder
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Shakie Oakie Reservation Wall
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Measure of Pleasure Bleeder Boulder
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Penis Captivus Bleeder Boulder
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blood Born Pathogen Bleeder Boulder
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Punk Rock Mohawk Reservation Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Trail of Fears Reservation Wall
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma  
After you pass Fern (the town) and AR-215 veers right, you will pass the Fern Assembly of God and then a tall A-frame house on the right side of the road. Just after that, the "unmarked dirt road" you will take on the right is the national forest road 1544. It is the first dirt road turn after you pass Hummingbird Rd on the right. Once you turn right onto it, you should see a brown post on the right side of the road with "1544" vertically in white numbers. Sep 16, 2012
Henri Alexander
Las Vegas
Henri Alexander   Las Vegas
Supplemental to Drew's directions from 2012:
This place is quite hard to find at night if you've never been here before. There is no cell service and therefore no GPS. Check out the pictures I added in the pictures section. The directions by Drew and on the fernclimbing website will make a lot more sense.

You can camp here! Check out fernclimbing.com for the deets.

Weather: The location makes this place hard to climb if it rained in the past couple days. Moss grows easily here due to a nearby water source. Check the forecast, be safe and may the Schwartz be with you. Aug 28, 2015
Fern Climbing Guide

Climbing guide for Fern can be found at the above link. Jerry does a great job updating the website in order to illustrate any new routes. May 17, 2016
Climbed there June 9, 2017 top rope. Using a sedan to get there was tough due to mud and holes. There must have been rain previously. We will go back but will use a truck or all-terrain vehicle. Temps were between 78-83 degrees so we were lucky it wasn't so hot. The sound of the creek and birds were awesome. There were about 8 people who left when we got there at noon so my hubby and I had the crag to ourselves. Thank you for all the climbers for keeping it clean by taking their trash. It was a fun experience so we're definitely going back. Jun 11, 2017
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
Cool spot. Tons of moderates plus some harder lines. The harder lines are pretty spread out, but there is a nice concentration in the area around War Apache. Feb 19, 2018