Elevation: 1,182 ft
GPS: 35.618, -94.006 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,347 total · 421/month
Shared By: Brett Roberts on Feb 9, 2012 with improvements by cadickerous
Admins: TylerKC
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Description

UPDATE (2/15/15)
Jerry has done some amazing work on the Fern website and the Fern guidebook. For completely updated route info including all the new routes, fernclimbing.com

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Getting There

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Oh Sheila
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Pimp Daddy 2000
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Checkpoint Charlie
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Bloody Monday
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Shakie Oakie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Measure of Pleasure
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Penis Captivus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Blood Born Pathogen
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Punk Rock Mohawk
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Trail of Fears
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oh Sheila Bleeder Boulder
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Pimp Daddy 2000 Bleeder Boulder
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Checkpoint Charlie Bleeder Boulder
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Bloody Monday Bleeder Boulder
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Shakie Oakie Reservation Wall
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Measure of Pleasure Bleeder Boulder
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Penis Captivus Bleeder Boulder
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blood Born Pathogen Bleeder Boulder
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Punk Rock Mohawk Reservation Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Trail of Fears Reservation Wall
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern »

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