Elevation: 1,182 ft
GPS: 35.618, -94.006 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 67,297 total · 627/month
Shared By: Brett Roberts on Feb 9, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

UPDATE (2/15/15)
Jerry has done some amazing work on the Fern website and the Fern guidebook. For completely updated route info including all the new routes, fernclimbing.com

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Getting There

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 3
[Redacted]
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Oh Sheila
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Pimp Daddy 2000
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Dark Matter
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
Checkpoint Charlie
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
Bloody Monday
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Shakie Oakie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Measure of Pleasure
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Bleeder
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Fear of Fear
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Cowboys and Angels
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Penis Captivus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Blood Born Pathogen
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Trail of Fears
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
War Apache
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
[Redacted] Fern Bouldering
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Oh Sheila Bleeder Boulder
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Pimp Daddy 2000 Nasty Wall
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Dark Matter Fern North
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Checkpoint Charlie Bleeder Boulder
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Bloody Monday Bleeder Boulder
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Shakie Oakie Reservation Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Measure of Pleasure Bleeder Boulder
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Bleeder Bleeder Boulder
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Fear of Fear Bleeder Boulder
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Cowboys and Angels Bleeder Boulder
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Penis Captivus Bleeder Boulder
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blood Born Pathogen Bleeder Boulder
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Trail of Fears Reservation Wall
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
War Apache Reservation Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern »

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