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Routes in Cascade Mountain Ice

Cascade Falls WI3 PG13
Rogans Gully WI3
Type: Ice, 1000 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,548 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 22, 2012
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description


Approach: 10 minutes
Climb: 2 - 4 hours
Descent: 45 - 60 minutes
Car-to-Car: 3 - 5 hours
Sun: little to none in winter


An excellent route with fun rambly pitches topped off with 2-3 long & steep excellent pitches right at the top. If it wasn't for the HUGE avalanche hazard this route suffers from it would be crowded all the time. Check the hazard before heading up! Climbing it at night to lower the objective hazard is not uncommon. Otherwise a very early start or a cloudy day is recommended.

Location

The super obvious waterfall your staring straight at when you exit at Banff heading west on the Trans-Canada. Park directly below the falls at the tourist pullout and follow the trail up to the route.

Protection

screws, v-threads. Fixed bolted stations abound on both the right and left side of the route.

Photos

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
I nearly lost my life on this easy and predictable climb in the early '80's. Thinking back, it was the perfect setup for an accident. Got up early at a hotel in Banff to climb the Weeping Wall. Drove all the way up there in a total snow storm and when we got there, the ice was bullet hard and the wind howling. Got back in the car and carefully drove back to Banff. Thought that as a conciliatory climb, we would 'run' up Cascade Falls.

Soloed most of it, got dark, while pulling the rope from the top rappel, my partner - Steve Bowen - pulled to hard and tipped over on a steep ramp. Neither of us were tied in. I caught Steve as he slide between my legs, saving him. If he would have hit my foot and I lost the bit of my crampon - both of us would have taken the big ride.

Stupid, and very lucky to have a do over on this. Got back to the car and the battery was dead from leaving the lights on. Better it than us. Jan 9, 2015