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Cirqus Voltaire
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Gold Star Canyon
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Bottle Top - Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bottle Top: North Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ |
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Ship of Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 39.08444, -108.69518 |
| FA: | James Stover, Doug Mckee, Dustin Hoffman |
| Page Views: | 3,254 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Jan 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a classic route for the Monument, maybe not "Get A Life" but definitely in the top tier of Momument 5.11s. Each pitch has it's own distinct character. It has lots of quality and plenty of desert flavor to keep things exciting. It climbs like a remote tower a stone's throw from town.
P1. Start immediately right of a right-facing corner in the lower left side of the huge cleft. Climb on thin gear and thought provoking 5.9 to the sandy ledge. Work you way up & around some large loose plates (5.6) to the nice splitter above and on to a nice ledge. 5.10-, +/- 100'.
P2. From this belay, work your way horizontally to the right on the bedding seam for 30' and then fire up the thin corner above. Watching your rope managment, climb this cruxy R rated 12' (5.11 b/c) to some easy face climbing and on to the beautiful, thin hands corner that marks the middle of this route. 5.11+, +/-120'.
P3. This is another great pitch with an exposed finish! Climb a sweet corner above the belay till making a careful mantle to the ledge at the base of the overhanging maw. Wiggle, worm, & fight up this difficult OW on great stone. Overhangs the entire route, exciting and strenous. 5.11, +/-60'.
Descend with one seventy meter making three rappels to the ground.
Location
10 minutes past the Irishman's Temple, this route climbs the huge cleft in the middle of the Skin Industries Wall. It is 100' to the looker's left of Skin Industies.
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